Please stop riding in that arena immediately! Sand that is 6 to 8 inches deep is way too dangerous to be working your horse in. There are some disciplines who prefer working in excessively deep sand, but it is very risky, and I would never advise it. The risk of tendon or ligament strain or even a major injury is just far too high. The correct depth of sand for a riding arena is... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Question # 304: So I have recently acquired an off track standardbred pacer. We are in the works of trotting only, and not pacing, before we even attempt the canter. The plan is for him to event lower level......maybe just pony club... although he would probably be stronger in dressage. He has free jumped beautifully though so I am hopeful! I have only about four rides on him ATM due to some health issues resolving when I adopted him... So since a lot of our work is trot and ground pole work to build up his muscles, I have been beating myself up because I cannot, for the life of me, sit his trot! I by no means am the best rider the world, but I do take pride in being able to sit a pretty bouncy trot, from my old QH mare to my warmblood mare who has so much suspension she will throw you out of the saddle at the trot. I have worked hard to accomplish this. But I cannot manage with him! Do any of you have any tips on helping myself to sit his trot?! If I ask him to slow down too much he goes into the pace again just because his muscles aren't ready for slower work yet... (Shelby)
I'm glad you sent some videos along with this question, as even though he doesn't look particularly spooky or backed off in these videos, I can get a much more clear picture of what is going on... (Click on Question or Video Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
I totally hear what you are saying... it sucks to get older! Aging riders often have to deal with chronic pain and stiffness from past falls and injuries, in addition to the "normal" problems of aging. I think that many of the ideas to keep older horses going strong will benefit riders as well! (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 300: Do leads matter when riding XC? (Ellen) Hi Ellen!
When galloping along between fences - no, not really. Although the ability to switch to the inside lead to make an upcoming turn will certainly make it easier to keep the horse balanced (and less likely to slip and fall around turns.) But there is an important point here that I want to bring up... something that most riders never think of, and can make a difference in their horse's soundness... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 299: My OTTB was recently diagnosed with some major back pain associated with saddle fit (I guess two different saddle fitters looking at it 4 different times wasn't enough!).......The vets recommended chiropractic adjustment, acupuncture and some other therapies, as well as work on strengthening his back and core since it is underdeveloped due to pain from the saddle (my saddle is too big for his back, it sits past his last rib). He has always been adjusted regularly, and we are working on easing him into acupuncture (so far he is not a fan) with the help of some other therapies to help relieve his tension. My question is, do you have any groundwork exercises to improve his back and core strength until I find a saddle that fits him better? My current plan is to hand walk him up and down long gradual hills 3 times a week with maybe some lunging 2x a week between those days. He is in decent shape other than his back, and we are shooting for a schooling show and clinic 5 weeks out contingent on finding a better saddle and his comfort/strength level. We would shoot to do a Combined Test at Beginner Novice, we have competed successfully through Novice I just don't want to push the height so close to his reconditioning. Once we find a new saddle, I plan on implementing your other exercises recommended for building a topline and for horses with tense backs, I just want to start on the ground so we don't lose too much conditioning! Thank you so much! (Natalie)
You can probably ask 10 different trainers this question, and get 10 completely different answers. I am of the opinion that... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 296: I have a question about "bitting up" versus moving up.......This past weekend I took my 9 year old OTTB to a schooling show, we have been schooling Novice but I decided to compete at Beginner Novice since our cross country experience is limited and we don't get much opportunity to school XC with a coach. Dressage was tense, but good enough for a 34.7. He has been relatively quiet in stadium, but in this particular case he was very difficult to keep from running at the fences, the only line that held him was the 2 stride. Cross Country was exhausting, in between jumps he would put his head down and just lean and try to take off. He didn't back off of any of the obstacles even the ones that were placed on a very awkward line. In the past at shows he's been a bit green on xc, the fences back him off a little and he tended to keep his head up. What do you think the best course of action is after a ride like this? While we did well at this competition, I don't think this is a good way to continue! I don't know that the Novice jumps would have backed him off any, and I don't think he would have actually made a couple of the turns on that track the way he was going! I've never used a gag, so I would rather stay away from bitting up that much if you think its appropriate in this situation. Thank you for your help!! (Natalie)
Welcome to the wonderful world of Eventing! There is nothing like it, you will be totally addicted! First of all, check out this entry on how to get started in Eventing. That will lots of information that you will need to make the switch. And as for things that you may need to focus on in terms of your riding... the biggest thing that Hunter or Jumper riders need to think about as they switch to Eventing is... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 294 and Video # 92: My question is about banks, specifically jumping down.......I don't know exactly what my body should be doing and I know that I don't release the reins enough as I jump down. Often in courses the down bank is followed by a jump to test your accuracy and control which makes me hold onto the reins even more as my horse has a big jump and a big stride and I am always afraid that I won't be able to get back in touch with him if I let the reins go. This video clip is of us schooling this weekend, the bank is at about the 56 second mark. My horse is a lovely, honest, athletic type and I want to be able to do him justice, he is very forgiving but I know if I keep hitting him in the mouth at every bank he is going to start thinking about whether or not it is worth jumping! (Susanne)
It's great that you are doing some cross training and jumping your Dressage horse! You will probably find that your Dressage work only improves, as the variety will help her to enjoy her work even more!
You raise a very interesting question... If you have trained your Dressage horse to be so forward thinking and "hot" to the leg, how do you develop or practice a jumping position with your lower leg on without losing that sensitivity? (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 290: I recently started riding a very nice, well trained thoroughbred. She is pretty big, probably 17+ and a little long backed. My normal ride is a 15 hand compact very (overly) sensitive ottb, so she feels ginormous.......She also takes a lot more leg, more than my horse, which I'm still getting used to. I forgot to mention that I'm 5'2" so my leg literally comes to half way down her barrel. I've been struggling a little with feeling in sync with her especially at the canter, she has big almost warmblood show jumper like hind movement, and I believe I'm bracing a bit in my stirrups in trying to find my balance, because when I drop them I can get the exact ride I'm after and it's wonderful, and so fun.( It's been great riding a horse that can do all the things after a lifetime of green ottbs.) :-) I'm wondering if you have any advice or exercises that I could work on to keep from bracing, because I'd like to be able to get that great ride with my stirrups too. (Amy)
I am sorry to hear that you have not been enjoying your riding as much lately. This can unfortunately be a sport of great highs and lows, and many riders will go through periods where things are frustratingly difficult, and just not fun anymore. The answer to your question about whether or not you should give it up can really only be answered by you. You will have to dig deep inside to really find out what you really want. The first thing I would suggest that you do is to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 285: My dominant mare can be severely herd bound. Our pasture which is excellent for gallops uphill/downhill/flat is the only place to ride other than the tiny arena or paved road. I try to longe her away from friends, but she can......buck, pull, and "pig root" once I'm on her. I usually jut throw in the towel at this point as she has thrown me in the past. Any suggestions? I don't have anyone to ride with, at the moment but that may change. (Ellen)
This is actually a fairly common problem, as the excitement of jumping can really get some horses fired up! It is important that you handle the situation correctly every time your horse ignores your half halt, or his response to your them is not likely to improve! Read this article for an explanation of how you should respond in the various situations. And here is a very important tip for you, on how to make half halts between jumps more successful... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 282: My new horse is a great jumper and LOVES cross country. However, he does not like to go in strange water jumps......When we go schooling at a new place, it sometimes takes me a half hour to get him in the water. Then once he goes in he seems to love it. But we get to the next place and he won't go in again! What can I do? Does this mean he is not going to be a good eventing horse? :( (Kris)
Hi Kris!
Don't panic! Since it sounds like he seems otherwise very bold, and appears to like the water once he is in it, I think there is a good chance that your horse will come around about this. There are some very specific things that you want to do when schooling the water from now on, that will set you up for the best chance at success, however. And that is to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 281: My mare has always had an issue with bucking/pulling upon landing in the next stride after landing from a fence when doing cross country......It’s inevitable the first few times, even with proper warm up. I've had her since she was a yearling and she is now 10. I'm sure if I was a better rider, this wouldn’t happen. She also has always had difficulty with holding the left canter lead. I'm sure chiro would help. What are your suggestions? (Ellen)
It sounds like you are dealing with the very common problem of... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 278: I am a dressage rider who is currently working on 2nd level. I have some days where I am really capable of connecting my seat to sit the trot very fluidly and straight...... (as I have a problem of tending to put too much weight on my right seat bone). This usually happens when I am able to fully soften and relax my spine. I have been doing several exercises to release and stretch my psoas muscles, but I just find that if I try to sit the trot multiple days in a row, my muscles get progressively tighter and unwilling to relax and move with the horse. I am wondering if you have any additional thoughts that help individuals to relax into the sitting trot, exercises, or stretches that you find particularly helpful. As sometimes I feel extremely connected, straight, and relaxed in the sitting trot, and some days I cannot figure out how to get back to that feeling, so if you have any advice, it would be much appreciated! (Berott)
Hi Berott!
It sounds like your tendency to want to sit a little crooked causes some tension in your muscles... or the tension in your muscles is causing you to sit crooked! Sometimes it can really be like the story of the chicken and the egg... which came first? Without seeing this happen to you, I couldn't begin to guess which problem is causing the other. But it really doesn't matter anyways - as you have to fix them both! (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 277: I would like advice on how to get comfortable switching from longer Dressage seat stirrups to Stadium and XC short stirrups as a middle aged working amateur rider? ...I am blessed with two horses and ride 3-4 times a week = 6-8 chances to adjust stirrup length/week. I usually hack a hole longer and adjust up for jumping. I also ride without stirrups a few minutes every ride. But I never feel secure unless I concentrate on one discipline or the the other. (Nancy)
A lot of horses (especailly mares) are "girthy" to some degree, (and if you haven't yet tried one, our sponsor, Total Saddle Fit, makes a great girth designed to keep horses comfortable in that area - check it out here), and sometimes it is something that you just have to learn to live with. BUT, since it sounds like this is a new problem, or at least one that is getting worse, it sounds like maybe... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 275: My little quarter horse mare likes to tilt her nose to the left at the trot and canter when working indoors......She doesn't do it when jumping, at the walk, or when out hacking. She is consistent in this behavior regardless of what bit she has on: I use a plain snaffle at home and a mullen mouth pelham out foxhunting. I've ruled out physical problems: she's had her teeth checked, saw the vet & chiropractor. What can cause this & how do I fix it? (Kellyn)
This of course can be a very common problem with horses that are built downhill! First of all, check out this article on Dressage with the croup high horse, which discusses ideas on how to get the best work out of this type of horse. And for a thorough description of how to make downward transitions and half halts work to truly cause your horse to carry himself better, read this... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 273: I'm wondering if you have any favorite exercises for strengthening a horse's back and building topline?...My old guy has been back to work for about two months after being off since June with major hoof trauma/crazy ulcer flares, He's (knock on wood) doing well, but he's lost all of his topline, and I'm having problems with him getting a little back sore. I've had a fitter out to adjust my saddle and pads to accommodate his frame now, and he's also getting body work. He's going on 21 so I know that it just takes longer to regenerate muscles on these old guys, I'm just wondering if you have an other exercises in mind beyond the tried and true long and low, that might help? I've been thinking about doing some long lining work with him, just to take my weight out of the equation, but I don't know a lot about long lining, so if you have any pointers there that might also be helpful. (Amy)
As for saddles with big knee rolls for jumping, I feel that... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 268: So, I took my 4 year old, Todd, to his first combined training last weekend. It was his second time jumping a full course and very first dressage test, and he was fantastic for how green he is. I'm a proud momma! I have a question about....I have a question about a comment the dressage judge wrote on my test. She said when I put him on the bit, I need to make sure to get his head up higher so he doesn't feel tempted to drop on the forehand. My question is, how high exactly am I supposed to keep his head up? He is still growing, he is in a growth spurt right now so he is very croup high. If I ask him to get his neck up higher, I'm afraid it's uncomfortable for him with how he is built right now. I've also heard that it's better to let them learn to move through the back into contact, even if they are slightly on the forehand, then ask them to raise the neck and step under as they get stronger. I don't want to ask him to do more than he's ready for, physically and conformationally. (Holly)
Hi Holly!
First off, congrats on your young horse doing so well at his very first competition! That is awesome! I have to say I am rather surprised to hear this comment from the Dressage Judge.... and what I am wondering is... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 267: My horse used to be a very bold and confident jumper. We competed to Training level very successfully. Then I took a year off because I had a baby. And now that I am back to riding, I feel like I have a different horse.... ...He doesn't take me to the fences anymore, and I have to ride really aggressively or he feels like he wants to stop. I haven't taken him to any competitions since I brought him back, since I don't like the way things are going. I tried using the whip to make him more forward and positive at the jumps, but that only seemed to get him nervous and spooky. I can hardly believe that this is the same horse that used to practically drag me to the jumps! What would you suggest I do? (Alice)
Hi Alice!
You don't say how old your horse is, but it may be a good time for a thorough exam by a good lameness veterinarian. There are many soundness issues that present in a way that the horse isn't actually outright lame, but their performance is negatively affected. Especially with bilateral lamenesses, such as when both front feet or both hocks hurt equally. In this case, the only way the horse can "speak" about his issues is to try to avoid things that cause him to hurt. So when a horse that was previously forward thinking and a willing jumper, begins to not enjoy his work... pain issues defintely need to be ruled out.
Since your horse was out of work for a year, all of his supporting structures would have likely become weaker. Which can mean that all of his joints would take more of a pounding while you are bringing him back into work. How much time did you take to bring him back into jumping work? At any rate, get him thoroughly checked out physically. And you might also want to check your saddle fit - as if your horse's shape has changed significantly, your saddle might be giving him pain and causing your problem. If everything checks out physically - then let's move on to fixing this problem from a training standpoint! (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 266: My horse hollows his back and throws his neck up in canter to trot downward transitions? What can I do to fix this? (Anonymous) Almost always when this happens, one or both of these things is usually the cause... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 265: I am a very timid person in general but my confidence was crushed last year due to a fall in the show jumping phase. I am now scared of oxers and I haven't jumped one since that show......(my horse chipped in due to my miscalculation. He jumped at the last minute and I did a flip over his head) Every time I jump now I get anxious and I think that the same scenario is going to replay. How can I boost my confidence again? (Marissa)
Good for you for being aware of this situation! I see many riders who don't seem to notice that their horses have insufficient topline muscles - and they sometimes ask or expect too much of them, resulting in unnecessary resistance. Making the time and effort to build up your horse's topline strength will go a long ways towards turning him into a happy partner and a willing performer! (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 262: I recently bought a 9 year old Thoroughbred, who I was told had more training than he actually does. When I rode him the first time he acted like he knew nothing, and completely disregarded any aid I gave him.......The first day he wouldn't even steer, now he is a little better with that, but he is still just dead to my leg. He won't move forward or off of pressure. He will only move forward with a tap of the crop to his rump. I have tried using a crop as just kind of an extension of my leg, but I really don't want to get rough, or into an argument with him and make him have bad experiences being that he's so "young" in his training. He's really easy going, but kind of dim. I just would like to know how to go from here. I've worked with young and green horses before but he's definitely different from any I've had experience with. Thank you! (Sam)
Hi Sam!
I think the best thing to do in this situation is to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 261: I have had my 8yr old gelding about 3 months, previously he had done lots of hunting in his native Ireland but no competing. We have completed four BE 90 classes......And though he scores well dressage I feel he can drift out on circles, it's more obvious show jumping when especially turning away from the warm up, then yesterday, on quite a twisty and technical (for a 90) xc course I had difficulty turning, I kept losing him through his shoulder when turning in front of a jump. We were clear but because of this problem we incurred lots of time faults. I appreciate this is all new to him and further schooling will help but I was quite alarmed when he was doing it xc, especially as there were lots of skinnies and a relatively difficult corner fence. I couldn't ride straight on any lines I had walked, and just had to let him go on whatever approach we had. Are there any articles on your site I should be reading please? Many thanks (Susan)
Hi Susan!
This can be a common problem, especially with big, powerful, and foward going horses, or horses that aren't properly engaged behind. And yes, there are a number of articles on the site that should help you! Check out... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 260: My horse is lazy and behind the leg regularly. I have worked hard on getting her more responsive by doing the things suggested on this website - following up immediately and consistently. However, my mare doesn't really care about......the whip, even to the point that I have put welts on her. One big whack doesn't do it. I have had more success with three or four rapid smacks but it ends up looking like I am beating my horse. And I usually have to repeat it several times in a schooling session. I ended up taking off my spurs and stopped supporting the "forward" with my legs in order to prevent her from getting dull and non responsive, but her apathetic attitude worries me that I have no tools left. What do you suggest? (Frankie)
You don't say how old your young horse is, but I would wait to do any real jumping until he is... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
This is a great question! Scores can be a good guideline, but they can sometimes be misleading... so I wouldn't rely on them exclusively. I have seen great movers get good scores despite having solid enough basics to move up a level. And the sad truth is that the below average mover may sometimes struggle to reach scores the mid 60's despite being technically ready to move up a level. The real question is... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 254: At what level would a turn on the forehand show up on a dressage test? (Julie) Hi Julie!
The turn on the forehand is not in a Dressage test at any level, but I really wish it would be! Horses at the most basic levels of Eventing or Dressage should know how to do it. If a horse doesn't understand the aids for a turn on the forehand, it won't... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 253: When I allow my gelding to stretch down he will snatch the reins, often yanking my arms and hands very hard.... And when I collect the reins he anticipates any work by jigging and speeding up our walk...I try very hard to stay consistent with my body and breathing to not give mix signals and won’t ask for anything until he settles but it takes a long time. Lately I have been ‘giving’ the reins (with him still snatching the reins) and taking the contact back slowly while still staying in the walk but I don’t seem to be making any progress. I pay special attention to my hands and elbows and he will often catch himself in the mouth when he tries to jerk the rains out of my hands. His bridle and bit fit fine and his teeth are regularly maintained. How can I fix this? (Rechele)
Hi Rechele!
Horses that snatch the reins in any circumstance are usually... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 252: I have a question about my jumping position. I am prone, when in motion, to tip my pelvis back - which then causes my lower leg to slip forward in front of the girth......and will even swing up onto the shoulder during landing. To compensate for this, I tip my upper body way too far forward in my "release" but sometimes my hands stay planted on the withers instead of reaching forward towards the bit. Its kind of a "C" shape, if you will. Today my coach described it "the perfect position if you're headed to an oxer with a drop on landing" but, of course, terrible for anything else, especially since most of what I'm doing now is small with my green horse. I'm behind the motion without being left behind. Or being left behind without being behind the motion. I'm not sure how to describe it. (Jen)
This is a great question! Rhythm is so important, and with come horses it can be so challenging to maintain! Think about the fact that every time the rhythm changes, something changed to make that happen. Often what happens is that the horse has become tense or anxious (maybe because the rider has?), so the rhythm becomes quick or erratic. Or the horse is losing energy, which will make the rhythm slower and more labored. But commonly it is due to a loss of balance, which can cause the rhythm to change in every possible way. Here are some things to think about, and some exercises to try, to help you improve your horse's canter rhythm... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 245: A recent comment from a Dressage judge on my First level test was "wide behind". I have no idea what this means… unless they were saying that I have a wide behind (which is possible, but not relevant to Dressage I wouldn't think)Can you please explain the meaning of this comment?? Thanks (Anonymous)
There are certainly many different ways to train a reluctant horse to go into a horse trailer! And many of those techniques utilize force or threats to convince the horse that he must comply. The technique that I prefer, however, is quite different from the others. I use the concept of release of pressure... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 243: I can get my lazy boy to the point that he is in front of my leg, but he won't stay there!Often I don't even notice that he has fallen a little behind my leg, until I realize that I am working quite hard myself. So I know that means I am letting him get lazy. What can I do to break this cycle, and keep him forward through my entire ride? (Sue)
I know exactly what you are talking about... I see this all the time. And this problem has a variety of causes. Usually when horses slip out or take missteps often behind, it is because... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 241: My big 17.1hh draft cross and I struggle very much with timing our take off for a jump. It doesn't matter if it is a single jump, a line etc. We tend to do a little better with the larger jumps and if it is a cross country jump... ...We are both new to jumping and I'm always very careful not to hit him in the mouth or land hard on his back. A ground pole will sometimes help with distance but we never seem to get in-sync together. I always seem to be wrong when I think/feel he will(or should take off)and he often adds(or doesn't when he should)an extra stride or step which results in me getting left behind or jumping ahead of him. This tends to happen at both the trot and canter but more often with stadium jumps. I have tried to shorten his strides or allow him to lengthen, hoping he will figure it out. We also practice lots of pole work as well. How can I help him (and myself)get more in-sync together for jumping? (Rechele)
This is a great question! And one that might be crossing a lot of riders' minds as we approach the winter season. My thoughts are this: (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 239, and Video # 72: Gabbie has a question about her green horse's jumping, with video!My 6yr old Warmblood mare and I are running into some situations whilst jumping.. She is green but very brave. However, she leaves her back legs at fences and trashes through them. If she hasn't seen the fence/filler before then she jumps really well, but once she's seen it, it's like she puts no effort in? Or that's what it feels like, and with smaller fences, she just runs through them. She jumps better off a circle or if straight, she runs on the forehand. My trainer is becoming frustrated with her too. Do you have any suggestions? This video is actually better for her, normally she would've taken a cross pole out with her back legs. (Gabbie)(Click on Question or Video Title above (in blue) to read the answer, and the critique of this video)
Good for you for putting in the time and effort to want to learn to do things the right way! And this is a great question to ask! As I see many beginner riders being taught to jump in a way that does not set them up for success... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 236: I have 2 horses I just signed up to be exercising, both with an issue all of their own. Both I do believe are ottb rescues as well. The first one likes to hop into a canter when we are quietly trotting along, he does this often.....My instinct is to stop them and back a few steps, but don't know if that is the right way to correct this. The other at the canter not only over bends at the poll but wants me to hold him up it seems and twists his head sideways to the same side both directions; if you looked at him from the front it's not vertical but diagonal. So, when I'm on him his ears are to the left and nose to the right with a twisted neck. Loose rein or short, I can only straighten it out by holding left rein up and out and right rein tight and to the neck, but I know this can't be the answer. I was told he's done this since before they had him and was hoping I had a fix with this, too. I figure now at this point to hold his head any other way is probably tiring and soar due to uneven muscle build. Also, informed that he doesn't to this out in the field riderless with the other horses all the time, more like 30% doing and 70% of the time not. Hope you guys have an idea as to how to fix this, or point me to where you've answered it before. Thanks in advance! (Anna)
Your first question or problem is extremely common! SO many riders go around circles and turns like they are riding a motorcycle instead of a horse! And this causes a collapsed inside hip, a low inside hand, and an outside hand that tends to creep up in the air. Read this article for a full explanation on that subject.
To help you find your seat bones... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 234: I recently acquired a 6 year old OTTB that was severely neglected and abused. :( Although he is remarkably improved both physically and mentally, he still has aggressive tendencies towards me......When I first got him, you could not touch him past his wither without him pinning his ears and swinging his haunches over to try and kick me. I've done a lot of exercises with him with a halter and lead to get him to respect my space. Some days are better than others at this point, but we still have trouble when currying. I use very soft brushes now and a soft rubber curry comb as well and he definitely likes it better, but when asked to move over or when I brush/curry his haunches, he sometimes pins his ears and tries to kick. This is all done while in cross ties... He is also aggressive during feeding time with me when I go into his pen to give him his supplements. He pins his ears and tries to charge at me. I don't want him to disrespect me and I don't want him to fear me either. Have you ever had any experience with this type of behavior before? I would love any and all advice you have? (Kealy)
I actually see this happen a lot to some degree. Either the horse is afraid of the whip, or the horse is annoyed by the whip, and acts out or threatens the rider when they think about using it. In both cases, (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 232: My OTTB has trouble with anxiety, grabs the bit and makes upward transitions on his own. When is it appropriate to change bits? (Anonymous) It can be so hard to know when it is appropriate to move to a different bit, or when the problem is more of a training issue! Read this article for a full description of which horses tend to do better with more bit, and which type of horse can become even more anxious and difficult to ride with more bit. Since you say your horse is the anxious type, I would say that it sounds like he is likely the second type mentioned in that article: (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 231: What I am struggling with is refusals, mostly confidence issues, spooking at fillers etc. I have found speed can sometimes be our friend, it looks out of control but the only times we have gone clear are when he's speeding!!!...But my instructors tell me too slow down, and when I do bring him back he stops, at the moment I feel telling him to slow down before the jump is giving him mixed messages when he's already got a bad habit of stopping, but I guess its a timing thing. I'm tempted to just perfect a really fast round rather than trying to get a slow/controlled round out of him, as the chance of him refusing is so much higher when he's behind my leg. Finding that balance between fast and in front of my leg, gaarrrr, what to do?? (Shelley)
Hi Shelley!
It is hard for me to say for sure about whether your speed is too fast without seeing you go... is there any chance you can send a short video? I will say that every horse has a certain "lick" that they jump the best out of, and if your horse is on the small side, or has a fairly short stride, he may need that little extra speed to be at his most comfortable jumping courses. With each individual horse, you want to find the pace where you feel like your courses just flow nicely, and where you meet more jumps than not right out of your stride. Even if it looks a bit different from some of the other horses. Read this article on that subject.
If we are just talking about confidence, with your horse having more of a tendency to refuse when you approach the jumps more slowly, then you need to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
This is a really common problem! A defensive rider carries around the mental baggage of bad things that have happened in the past, and has a hard time letting go of it - and just riding the horse they are on at the moment. It is perfectly natural for a rider to remember a bad experience, and to have it affect their riding to some degree. But it can paralyze your capacity to ride to the best of your ability. And there are some things you can do to help overcome this problem! (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 229, and Video # 70: Problems with halting!I'm bringing my Intermediate horse back into work & he's decided that downward transitions are optional. We went to a schooling show & the judge said "all downward transitions late" & at the end of the Intermediate test he flat out refused to halt & I actually had to make a circle & try again. I've tried the usual, lots of transitions, stronger aids when he doesn't stop, it doesn't seem to be helping. I'm riding him in a double jointed snaffle & I thought tomorrow I'd try a different bit & see if that makes any difference. When he decides not to stop & I pull harder, he just pulls back even harder & keeps going. I'm not sure where this is coming from, but he's in perfect physical shape so I know it's not physical. He tends to do it at the end of the session or day, I'm wondering if he's tired, bored, confused...... not sure what's going on! Here's the video. Help! (Laura)(Click on Question/Video title above (in blue) to read the answer and critique of this video)
My first thought would be to have her vision checked, although I actually doubt that is your problem, since she jumps just fine. It wouldn't hurt to get her eyes checked anyway though, as it is possible she has a condition that makes her vision spotty. Barring any eye issues, 95% of the time when horses trip over ground poles under saddle, it is because of one or both of these reasons: (Click on Question title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 227: My horse is an “energy conservationist.” Out on cross-country or in the stadium ring, he is inspired to be reasonably forward and balanced. In the dressage ring? Not so much. The current struggle is canter quality......We got to a certain level of forward and balanced, and now we are ready to move up from BN to N, and need more impulsion and more balance. However, this idea is NOT popular with the equine half of the team. When I push for more impulsion, he hollows out, dumps all his weight on his forehand and moves against the contact. It’s like riding a belligerent chestnut wheelbarrow. At home, I’m working on this by putting him on a 20m circle, going back to trot as soon as the canter starts to deteriorate, and then back up into canter, and repeat. It does seem to help - at first we get maybe 2 strides of “good” canter at a time and by the end of the ride, we’re getting a half circle. Meanwhile, I am insisting on a meaningful response to the leg by giving him an immediate swat behind the leg if he ignores it or gives a half-hearted response. What else should I be doing? (Rachel)
Hi Rachel!
This is the age old problem of speed vs impulsion! When you ask your horse for more impulsion, you are merely getting more speed. This is putting your horse on the forehand, where he is then looking to you for support. Read this article on impulsion. In addition to defining the term, it will discuss the prerequisites before true impulsion is possible, and how to create it in your horse. And your horse may not be a draft or carriage type horse, but read this article as well, as it contains some very specific exercises that should help you with your horse's canter. It all comes back to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 226: I have a rescue TB (starved, not raced that we know of) who I fostered and trained (and then adopted) and have had for over a year. I've been working on my half seat and trying to get her braver, going on hacks and practicing cross-country...(mostly trot, some canter) around the barn grounds (getting out of the ring). After :30 walking warmup yesterday we took off at a trot down the driveway and me in half seat; she did a big sideways spook with no warning and I went down on my tailbone. Ouch. . . . Got back on, worked her up and down that spot and got her better. I guess there are two things I'm after. One, what stirrup length should I use for cross-country/trail? I am using a hunter length which keeps my butt totally clear of the saddle. If I lower it one hole, it becomes much easier to maintain half seat, and I am more secure, but doesn't build my leg strength. ??? Also, I wonder if she feels more secure in full seat? This is the second time she's jumped completely out from under me in half seat (third, total). What should I do when she does this?? (Melanie)
This is a fairly common problem, and it is seen at all levels! Some horses are born with a lateral canter, and that is a very negative trait for a Dressage horse. But some just have a slight tendency to fall into a canter that becomes a bit lateral in certain situations. Usually what brings out that tendency in a horse is one or both of these things: (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 224: I have an OTTB who is getting more used to going places away from the stable. He is actually quite calm when we go to shows or clinics alone. But when we trailer with someone (even a new horse)......they become BFFs and he becomes impossible. He whinnies, paces, cranes around constantly looking for his trailer partner and is very hard to keep focused. Is there anyway to overcome this? He used to be very difficult in our ring at home when he was left alone in the ring after whoever was riding with us finished first and headed back to the barn. Now he still gets distracted but he can settle down after the horse goes out of sight. At shows he has settled down somewhat after many minutes of not being able to see the other horse and if I'm otherwise distracting him by riding or hand walking him around. Soon as the other horse can be seen we start it all up again. I'd like to show with other people, share rides and enjoy spending the day together. Have you successfully seen horses like this learn to relax enough to make travelling with another horse less problematic? I see many horses at shows quietly sitting on the trailer while the other horse is showing. I don't expect that from mine but I'd like not to clear out the warm up ring with his antics when his friend starts to ride out of sight. Thanks (Lisa)
Hi Lisa!
This can be a tough problem! How old is your horse? Many times with issues like this, they will get gradually better with time, age, and experience. I do have a few concrete ideas for you to try, that will hopefully get you there much faster however! (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 223: What are some exercises to strengthen stifles aside from hill work? (Vita) Hi Vita!
Check out this article for lots of ideas on ways to strengthen the hind end in general, and for an outline of a strength training program. And from that list, the exercises that will best strengthen the stifle joints (with no hills available) are... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 222: Last year I restarted a TB filly who had come off the track in December and was let down until we brought her home in May. She was always one to get tense and stiff the moment she didn't understand something......But we worked through things and she was going quite well wtc and cross rails. Should would calmly jump around in a good rhythmn. Fast forward to this year, a teen has been riding her since April. I got on her for the first time in quite awhile and found that she is baring down on the bit the last three strides to the fence. She has a wonderful quality canter all the way up until that last three strides and then suddenly its like she goes from 0-60 at the drop of a hat. Afterwards she also tries to race away. I tried a couple different things to see if we could find the relaxation again but to no avail. She has not yet been checked out by the vet, I know pain could be a possibility, but beyond that if we dont find anything what do you suggest? I am thinking she needs to go about ten steps backwards and begin from the very beginning again. Her flat work is pretty good, its just the moment a jump appears in front of her. Thanks in advance! (Stephanie)
Ulcers can definitely cause a horse to grind their teeth under saddle. So it might be a good idea to have a vet check your horse for ulcers, especially since he is in a transitional stage right now, with a new owner and probably a new barn. Or you could spare him the trauma of scoping, and just put him on a course of Ulcergard (one full tube a day) for a week or two, and see if you notice a change in his behavior. If he stops grinding his teeth under saddle, that may be a strong indicator that ulcers were your problem. I would then keep going with the Ulcergard medicine, giving him one full tube a day for the rest of the month. As well as making sure he gets lots of turnout, and plenty of grass or hay throughout the day. I like to give any horse with a history of ulcers a low grain diet, with unlimited hay at all times if possible. If you don't see any change in his behavior during your trial of Ulcergard, then it is probably a case of... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 219: I'm loving the site so far! Sooo long story short, I'm a smallish person 5'2" 120lbs. My teenage years and young twenties I always rode really big horses that......could have cared less about my then 100lbs on their back. So the result was I ended up riding more with my hands then off my seat and legs. I had a good seat and solid leg, but I never felt very effective. Fast forward 13 years, my horse is 15.1, so I acually fit him nicely. And he's a pretty sensitive guy (sometimes to a fault... typical chestnut), so I vowed this time around to become a more effective rider by learning to use my seat and legs properly. I was wondering if you had any good exercises that I could use to work on getting my horse to become more responsive to those aids? Any advice is greatly appreciated. (Amy)
Hi Amy!
Good for you for having that goal! Some riders seem to just go through life riding with loud and somewhat ineffective aids, without making a real effort or commitment to bettering themselves (as in, "it's always the horse's fault.") But since horses are easily desensitized to loud, constant, or confusing aids... to the point that they can completely tune them out if necessarry, it is up to US as riders to keep our horses fine tuned to our aids. They key is to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 218: The thing I'm struggling with at the moment is getting my horse to break into a canter without acting up or refusing to canter. How can I make her want to do it? This is only when we are doing any flat work…. ...when jumping or chasing cows, or when she has something to focus on she will break into the canter with the correct lead every time. Just not in the flatwork! Please help! (Nakita)
With an OTTB, as with any horse, the answer is to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Video # 67 and Question # 213: This is a video of Rowan, my 14 year old OTTB gelding. I took him off the track several years ago and turned him into a show jumper and fox hunter......He had last year off for a hock injury, and this is his first year eventing. He's a great horse cross-country: unflappable, bold to the jumps, light in your hands, and very adjustable. But he has a bad habit of drastically slowing down when we approach water, even water he has been through before. I think the root of the problem is in the hunt field most of the time we stop before crossing water, as our hunt country is very trappy and we often have to work to find a safe place to cross (especially if there's ice). Any advice on how to "re-educate" him to be as bold to water as he is to everything else? (Kellyn)(Click on Video or Question Title above (in blue) to read the answer and the critique of this video)
Yes, they are definitely cracking down on the concept of "dangerous riding" lately, and carding or even stopping riders who look to be out of control. It is a little hard for me to answer you very specifically without actually seeing your horse go... any chance you can send in a video? What kind of bit are you currently using? Very often, when riders are struggling to control their horses on the cross country, it is because they have not learned how to properly control the horse at the gallop. Read this article for a refresher on that subject, and also... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 210: I recently bought a nice 14 year old Oldenburg mare that has been used as a lesson horse for several years. She is sweet, quiet, responsive to my leg; but the most stiff and resistant in the bridle that I have ever come across......There is no head tossing, no temper tantrums, just resolute stiffness. There is absolutely no give or softness laterally or longitudinally. I've started working with her by flexing to the left and right, having her give to me each direction at the halt, working on the lunge with side reins, lots of transitions from walk to trot; tot to walk to halt. (No reason to add canter to this yet, lol.) She is quite unfit, but in great weight and health. She has that odd dip in front of her withers that horses get when they work in the wrong frame for so long. She also has an odd habit of tapping her front teeth together when she is working. I've just started with this horse. I think I'm on the right track. What do you think? Any good exercises you can think of? (Anonymous)
Focus and attention are obviously very important when jumping! However, unlike when working with a human student, the rider can't say to their horse, "Pay attention to me!". Well they can try... but it probably won't work as well as they would like. Instead, a rider needs to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Video # 66 and Question # 208: This is Kymbre!Here is a video of the mare I mentioned before that I was working with named Mouse. She was the one who would throw her head up to avoid contact with the bit, and then she learned how to curl her chin to her neck to avoid the contact as well. But I read your post about using side reins on a lunge line to teach them how to go forward into the contact. This seemed to help A LOT! Because she isn't fighting as much or trying to avoid the contact. I am even able to get her to lengthen her stride while stretching into the bit. It's very nice. In this video we worked on bending from the inside leg into the outside rein into the contact. And for the most part she understood it after we did it at the walk first.
I noticed in the video that my right stirrup was exceptionally shorter than my left stirrup, which I felt during my ride, but I assumed I was just sitting unevenly. I think if I had that stirrup even I would have had a little better luck with the right bend. Also, I noticed there were a few times that I accidentally pulled the outside rein back as opposed to asking her to move into it. That is something I will definitely be aware of next time I work with her. I noticed it a few times during the ride and I would push my hand forward a little bit to allow her room to move into that rein. But for the most part she looks good in this video. If you could just let me know what you think, and if there's anything I need to do to make the results better or more efficient. Also any exercises I could try to improve her movement or acceptance of the contact. Thanks! (Kymbre) (Click on Video or Question Title above (in blue) to read the answer and critique of this video)
Walking up and down hills is one of the most productive strengthening exercises that we can do with our horses! Because they have less momentum than they do in the trot and the canter, they have to use sheer power to push their body weight up the hill. Going down the hill, you get increased "sit" behind, with more weight being carried over the horse's hocks. The benefits are enormous. But as to whether trotting or cantering up or down hills should be done as well - the answer is... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 205: My horse is always "right on" on cross country. In stadium, however, we are both notably greener. Sometimes she's in XC mode, taking off all over the place in the warm up, which often leads to… ...very sloppy rounds since we are both too busy fighting to see the jumps. But more often (and very contradictory), I have trouble getting her to take me to the fences. It's as if that light that is always on in cross-country, forward and looking for the next jump, doesn't come on in the show ring. To make matters worse, the lack of forward energy makes me resort to the old bad habit of leaning forward and jumping ahead (which I no longer do xc). So, how do I find that nice stadium impulsion, where she is not trying to take off galloping, while still not giving me the out-of-office auto-reply? Do I need to get a long stick with a nice brush fence to wave in front of her? (Nanna)
Great question! We all know that we need a good, active, and balanced canter for both Dressage and jumping. But there definitely are a few differences in the canter that you want for the two different disciplines! Those are... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 203: I am having issues with my canter to trot transitions......My trot to walk is almost perfect, in that I feel as if my horse is still actively engaged in the hind end when we transition downward, and I feel our upward transitions (all of them, even into the canter) are fairly good. The trot to canter isn't perfect, but it's still better than the canter to trot. Especially to the left. What are some exercises to improve that particular downward transition? Thank you! (Kymbre)
I am so glad to hear that the Nathe bit is working so well for you! It can be such a fabulous bit choice for horses that have have sensitive mouths, or are overly defensive about contact. And yes, it is 100% legal for your Dressage test in Eventing. But since it is probably the most mild bit out there, I totally understand you feeling like you need a little more bit than that for jumping! I don't think I would go to a mullen mouth as a step up from this bit. I think I would instead try a... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 199: I have a young horse (5 year old ISH) with a trainer. He's really wonderful, but very ADD, herd-bound, pretty spooky, and somewhat insecure. In essence, he's just like me......My trainer is worried that the two of us will be a major disaster. I would love for this horse to be my next horse, but what do you know about personality quirks of people/horses? The horses I've done well with in the past have been "steady eddies", very calm (but alert), willing/eager to please, and VERY forgiving. Ammie friendly. SO--can ADD riders be ok with ADD horses? Or is this a situation where opposites really do better? (Becky)
As with any movement in the Dressage ring, the key is... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 197: My horse and I moved up to Training level last summer, and did very well, even winning at our last event of the year. But this year......has not started off so great. He is still jumping everything, but kind of reluctantly. He just doesn't feel as confident this year, and I don't know what the problem is. We have done 3 events this year already, and he was no better in the 3rd as he was in the first. I am thinking of dropping back down to Novice for a while, but my trainer doesn't want me to. She says he will be fine, and I just need to get more agressive. What do you think? (Amelia)
Hi Amelia!
Well, there could be a number of things going on here. First of all, it would be a good idea to get your horse thoroughly checked out by a vet who is a lameness specialist. Sometimes they begin to lose enthusiasm for their job long before they are actually lame, when they have a minor issue. This can be especially true when it comes to hock issues, which are often bilateral (occuring evenly on both sides), as well as back or SI (sacroiliac) issues. But can also be an issue with mild foot pain or saddle fit. Since your horse has had such a big change in performance, it is really a good idea to rule out any physical issues. But it could also just be a confidence thing.
It sounds like you are pumping with your upper body at the canter - which is actually quite a common problem! This is something that once a rider starts doing, can quickly become a bad habit. The best way to fix this problem will likely be for you to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 195: I have a client's horse that I'm working with, and she has an issue I've never had to deal with before. She thinks she is an accordion--she will shorten her neck and hollow her back whenever she has any contact in her mouth....We've been working very hard on it, and we've gotten her to go forward pretty well without becoming resistant to leg aids and she's even becoming more comfortable feeling the bit in her mouth when she goes forward. she's even getting lateral movements down very well, and we're working on stretching into the bit at the walk and trot. But we have to take a step backwards in our training when we ask her to go down a gait. Downward transitions are a nightmare because she shortens her neck, throws her head in the air, and suddenly there is no horse in your hands and it takes anywhere from 6 strides to another trip around the arena to stop her. I've tried everything I know and nothing is working. I don't know what she is anticipating when this happens. Maybe she's expecting too much hand, or she's expecting someone to bounce on her back really hard. I have no idea, but either way I have no idea how to make her stretch into the contact while we go down a gait, rather than fight it. She has a Myler level 1 bit, which the owner is switching to a French link soon (I don't know if it's a D ring or what it is). The Myler is a little too big on her. So that could be an issue, but she accepts it fine in forward work. And her saddle is fitted for her, so that shouldn't be an issue. And she's up to date on all other medical things, so she's not in pain anywhere. (Kymbre)
Hi Kymbre!
This is actually quite a common problem, to at least some degree. Many times a horse that has finally learned to reach into the connection will tend to regress in downward transitions. Read this article on maintaining the length of neck in transitions to read about how challenged the USET riders were with this, even with their top horses. Also read this article on the horse that tends to shorten its neck, for a full description of that problem in general, and some ideas on how to overcome it. And I would try to use... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 194: My horse has become very heavy on the forehand. I have worked with 2 trainers, 1 dressage, 1 H/J and each has tried to show me different ways to stop her from pulling. One tells me to pull when she pulls back, the other says to hold......Now she has become SO terribly irritated that I can't even ride her at the walk without her pulling on me, chomping, and pinning her ears. It has come to the point where I don't know what to do. Just last week the H/J trainer put a flash noseband on her to keep her from putting her tongue over the bit and resisting, but now she has started rearing, grinding, chomping and pinning her ears when I put ANY pressure on her mouth. Or if I ask at all, she almost pulls me out of the saddle. I realize that it is MY fault that I have listened to trainers telling me to pull, jerk and see saw but now I don't know where to turn. So finally after all this, my question is what should I as a rider do? Or is it too late.. If you need more of an explanation please let me know. Thank you. P.S. her teeth were just examined by the vet, and she goes in a loose ring french link snaffle. (Anonymous)
Many riders instinctively pull back on the reins when they feel their horse becoming strong or heavy. And it is really sad to hear that you have actually been told to do so. All that will do is start a fight. As far as what to do at this point - it might be best to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 193: My 15 yr old TB OTTB gelding gets strong at the canter and pulls down, especially on cross country.He goes in a loose ring french link for dressage, and for x-c I have him in a 2 ring elevator of the same mouthpiece, with a figure 8. He does not like poll pressure, so if I use the elevator on anything below the snaffle ring he gets really annoyed. Besides needing to work on our half halt and find a way to "let go" and not get into a pulling contest (still haven't figured that out!)..... are there any bits or bridles you have found more successful? He also chomps his teeth, more so when a little nervous. I'm thinking of trying a waterford, but afraid it might be too big for his mouth. Also, maybe a gag with both a snaffle rein and gag rein? (Anonymous)
Question # 190: Last year, my mare was a VERY solid Novice horse and I moved her up to Training level at the end of the season. She would take about 2-3 jumps to build her confidence and then there was literally nothing I could point her at she......wouldn't jump over on x-country. I even threw some prelim fences at her with no issues whatsoever. Along with the rest of the country, we had a really hard winter with not as much riding as I would like. I've jumped a few different times and my horse has been very good on every occasion. We've jumped at home, away from home, out in the field, etc. with no problems. I took her for her first cross-country schooling of this year yesterday, and she was very uncharacteristically stopping at fences. My Novice/almost training level horse was refusing even starter fences. And she was stopping HARD. She'd be very forward to pretty much the base of the fence, maybe sometimes a stride away, and then would just stop. Because of the slower start to the season I was planning on taking her Novice for her first event this year (about a month away), but now I am concerned about wasting my money even going if she can't get over a starter fence. Since both stadium and dressage don't seem to be a problem (or at least a money-losing one) my plan is to focus on cross country for a while and take her to the local "schooling ground" a few times, starting very small, and trying to build her confidence back up again. I'm wondering what your thoughts are? Does it sound like I maybe just tried too much too soon this year (I started the schooling rather small so I'm not sure what else I could do)? Should I maybe take her Beginner Novice instead of Novice? Any ideas/advice would be appreciated. Thanks! (Kayla)
Hi Kayla!
It is not all that unusual for horses (or riders) to find themselves back to sqaure one confidence wise after a long period of not going cross country. Although the extent to which you describe is unexpected. I think we can safely assume that she is not being bothered by a physical issue, like a minor soundness or new saddle fitting issue (from a possible loss of weight over the hard winter), since you say she is going so well in the other phases. So that leaves us with confidence issues. Perhaps you were a bit nervous and tentative yourself out there, since you hadn't done it in a while either? She may also have just been having a really bad day (being a mare, and all!) At any rate, what I would advise you doing is... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 189: I have been riding this little 13.1h pony for this little girl at my barn for a few months now. She used to barrel race and does not know what slow is. She has gotten so much better since I first started riding her, but......she hates when I have the slightest contact. She does not even know what dressage means let alone contact. She runs through every single bit we put her in, right now she is in a kimberwick double jointed bit in the lowest slot. It works okay, but we are having some problems. Her teeth are fine and her saddle is fine and we have had the dentist come look at her and she is fine so we don't know what to do. What types of bits would you recommend? Also, she always rushes jumps and ducks her head way down. Even poles, she tries to skip the poles if they are "too close together" but if you place them farther apart she does a pony extended trot (over exaggerating a bit) and she just runs and pulls on the bit. She will be fine sometimes going towards the jump but after she pulls her head down and runs so what do you suggest? I am 5'1 so she listens better to me than the little girl riding her. When the little girl rides her she just takes advantage of her. Sorry I just joined today and have so many questions about this cute but naughty pony! Thanks! (Margaret)
Hi Margaret!
Gotta love the cute but naughty ponies, don't you? And those that have been started with speed events like barrel racing are often especially challenging! It sounds like you will have your work cut out for you! An article on bits is in the works, and should be up within the week. But I don't think the answer to your problem is a particular bit. I think you need to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 188: I have a student who has a hard time seeing her leads while on the horse. I've tried to have her watch the front leading leg to see what lead it is, but she says she cannot see the legs at all. Her horse does have rather large shoulders, but I don't think it's to the point that it would be impossible to see the legs. Part of the issue is as of right now, her horse only picks up the left lead no matter which direction we're going. Since she can't see the leads, she can't tell. We've also started focusing on watching other horses while on the ground to have her see which lead they're on, and we're making progress here. My next step is to put her on a lunge line and have her focus on just even seeing the front legs at all gaits, but I was wondering if you had any other suggestions/exercises? Thanks! (Kayla)
Transitions are a very clear test of the quality of your connection. So when your horse comes above the bit in the transition to canter, she is telling you that her hind legs were not sufficiently up underneath her body, or she was not 100% through in her back at the time of the transition. Read this article on throughness for a full description on that quality, and read this article for an exercise to help increase your level of throughness. You will likely and hopefully find that after working on this exercise in the trot until you feel like it is going well, your transitions to canter are improved.
Young horses sure are fun, aren't they?? Many horses (especially TBs) seem to have a line that they cross sometimes... where they sort of "shut down". And when they cross that line they either become completely irrational, or they close themselves off and become unresponsive. Every horse is different in what works to help them cross back over that line, but what has worked the most for me (and I had a horse that did that a lot!) was to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 184: How can I gauge whether or not my horse is becoming properly conditioned? Just don't want to assume they are because they do as I ask. (Joan) Hi Joan!
This is a great question! As some horses, particularly the hotter type, can give you a bit of a false reading as to how fit they actually are. If they don't actually tell you that they are tired and overworked for their level of fitness, how are you to know?? (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 183, and Video # 60: Member Laura sends in her question in a creative way! (Watch the video to see!)My 6yo OTTB who has been in a consistent 6 day per week program for 6 months has NO self preservation. Regardless of speed, gait, size or type of fence, he has no problem walking all over jumps, or even running right into them. He doesn’t STOP when he’s in trouble, he turns into a snow plow. I've tried everything I can think of, and it may be time to consider a career for him that doesn't involve solid obstacles. Here's a video I made. What do you think?? (Laura) (Click on Question and Video Title above (in blue) to read the answer to the question, and the critique of this video)
Question # 182: I know that riding and training AREN'T linear. I get that. But I'm really flummoxed about how to deal with the last year...Our show results are just like a total crap shoot these days. Things we used to have in the bag are questionable now. I used to be able to count on finishing on our dressage score, and we rarely had SJ rails and never X-C penalties. Some things are improving, but everything that we used to be able to count on seems now not necessarily there. I get the non-linearity of training (2 steps forward, 1 step back), but this feels like the inexplicableness of quantum mechanics!! Are we still progressing? We've been doing schooling dressage shows at 1st level rider test and level1 test 3 and earning high 60's but otherwise, it's hard to point at progress... (Briana)
Hi Briana!
I am sorry to hear that you and Henry have been having a tough time lately! I've always thought that one of the most fun things about the sport of Eventing, is that there are three completely different phases involved. But one of the frustrating things about the sport is that since there are three different phases, it is somewhat common for one phase to go a little downhill as you improve in another. While there is no proven logic behind this phenomenon, I have seen it happen many times. A rider will finally get that big breakthrough in Dressage, and then have an unusual stop on cross country. Or the rider will finally lick that problem with jumping corner fences on cross country, only to find that the Dressage isn't what it has been. Or on the weekend that you have a personal best in Dressage, and a great clean run on cross country, you uncharacteristicly have several rails down in the show jumping. It sucks! But that's what can happen when you have three very different sets of skills to work on. Here's what I would suggest: (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 181: This is a really weird question but...can I ever tighten my horse's girth too tight? (Emma) Hi Emma!
This is a great question! Because riders have always been taught to make that girth good and tight, to make sure the saddle won't slide. And the answer is... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Don't feel bad, this is one of the most common problems in riding, and especially Dressage! As humans, we are very hand orientated. And this has a very unfortunate effect on riders... causing them to often instincively bypass the other aids, and go to their hands first. We also often get baited by our horses to pull on the reins, as horses sometimes try to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 179: How much weight should you have in your stirrups? (Kim) Hi Kim!
This is a common problem with young horses, to at least some degree. Being herd animals, they take comfort in the company of their friends. What you have to do is change the way your horse thinks of you. If you can get him to start to think of you as a member of his herd, and in fact his herd leader, you can re-direct his focus back to you. Once you have achieved that, your horse will begin to look to you for comfort when he is nervous or insecure. (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 177: It seems like about half the time I go on a hack with my mare she is either perfectly behaved, or jigging, breaking into the trot, or breaking into the canter the entire time.She always seems to really enjoy herself, and has been behaving herself wonderfully when we are at home or even somewhere else as long as we are in an "arena". Do you have any suggestions to get her to just calm down and enjoy herself? (Kayla)
Horses tend to try to lean on the bit when their balance is too far forward. The bit then becomes somewhat of a "fifth leg" for them, to support the extra weight of their front end. They can, however, only use the bit for support if the rider lets them. So if you just keep holding that extra weight in your hands, you are enabling the problem. But what you don't want to do is something that I see happen all too often... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 175: I'm a new member to your site and am just loving watching all the videos and reading all the articles. I've learned a lot already! I do have a couple of questions for you.I haven't done much eventing, and what little I have done was 15 years ago or so. I'm looking to get back into it - I've always wanted to and I finally have the time/money/horses to do so. I am a professional in the hunter and jumper world and have shown at a lot of the high level shows (A and AA rated) run by USEF/USHJA. Does my professional status in the hunter/jumper ring affect what level I am allowed to enter in the eventing world? I would love to be able to take this year slow so I have the chance to figure out what I'm doing - maybe stick to beginner novice or novice level so my horses and I stay well within our comfort zone. But I don't want to step on anyone's toes or break any rules. I was also wondering if there is a resource for finding clinics in my area. I'm familiar with a couple of the local instructors and eventing barns, but haven't been able to find any info on clinics, etc. (Maybe it's just too early for them to have posted the info yet.) Thanks! (Kellyn)
Hi Kellyn!
Welcome back to the wonderful sport of Eventing! In the Eventing world, there are very few amateur and professional divisions. Usually you will find each level will offer an "open" division, a "horse" division, and a "rider" division. So if you are competing at the Novice level, you would have the option of entering Open Novice, Novice Horse, or Novice Rider. Open Novice would be open to everyone. Novice Horse means... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
That's always frustrating when you feel like the improvement in your flatwork doesn't carry over into your jumping! First I want to make sure you have seen all of the posts on this site that deal with this subject. Read this one, and this one... both of which pertain to that exact problem. Since you say things are going much better in your flatwork, it sounds like you just need to find a way to apply what you have taught your horse to the jumping. Here's how to do that:
Horses can either come to the conclusion that flatwork and jumping are two entirely different things, or they can learn that jumping is flatwork with jumps in the way. What makes them learn one way or the other? (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 171: How do you get a horse more collected? (Sophia) Hi Sophia!
That is a really good question! I think it certainly could! Anyone who tends to ride in a "chair seat" (with their legs out in front of them, and their weight falling backwards), needs to evaluate the balance of their saddle to make sure they are not fighting a losing battle when they are trying to fix this problem. (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 169: I really need help with my leg position! My issue is that my leg swings too far back in jumping, 2 point, and some transitions. I also lift my heel often. What happens in reality when I am jumping, is that I am slightly ahead of the motion, and I believe I am trying to avoid catching my horse in the mouth. I grip with my knees and my lower leg swings back. Upon landing, I can feel my knees lock slightly and I am standing in the stirrups. I know that I need good contact between the inside of my calf and the horse, and that my hips must go back in order to prevent my legs from coming too far back, and that I need to sink down and anchor in my heels. The problem is I don't know what to do with the rest of my position! I often feel like my knees are flapping in the breeze. Jumping also takes away the strong part of my position, my seat. Please help! (Anonymous)
After making sure that the horse has the proper nutrients to make for healthy hooves, the next biggest consideration becomes the external conditions that will so greatly affect them. The most difficult situation for horse's hooves is the wet/dry cycles that horses often have to deal with. The expansion and contraction that takes place when they go from standing in mud or on wet dewey moring grass, to standing in a stall on dry shavings, is often what causes all of the problems that you mention.
I realise it's a highly individual thing but a 'starting point' is what I'm after. Also, I'm in Australia, so if you could point me somewhere which explains the heights etc for your levels so that I can convert them back to 'Aussie' levels, that would be great. (Amelia)
Hi Amelia!
The US levels are as follows:
Beginner Novice: 2 ft 7 in (0.79 m) Novice: 2 ft 11 in (0.89 m) Training: 3 ft 3 in (1 m) Preliminary: 3 ft 7 in (1.09 m) Intermediate: 3 ft 9 in (1.14 m) Advanced: 3 ft 11 in (1.19 m)
Read this entry for a sample schedule for the US Novice level Event horse (which is just under your Preliminary level). This should give you a general idea for a basic training schedule for the lower level horse. Here is an entry that will outline the basic skills that you should have before doing Novice level. And here is an entry on when it is appropriate to move up to the next level. When you get to the Training level in the US (which is similar to the Pre-Novice level in Australia) most horses need some more serious conditioning work or "gallop sets" added to their program. (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
This is a good question, that I bet a lot of riders wonder about, as it is not fully explained, is it? The answer is... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 163: Johnny gets to begin real work again soon following a tie-back procedure. My vet advised me to "take it slow." I've been riding him at the walk to keep up at least some of his back muscling.Can you recommend a good slow start program for getting him back to work? Judging by our 'easy' ride yesterday, he's going to be fairly fresh, and I know now that he can breathe it will be difficult for me to figure out what his limits need to be initially. Normally I'd base my workouts off his recovery times, but he was fairly fit with a grade 4 roar...now that he can breathe, I'm guessing he's got a pretty good wind built up. Looking for an easy start and slow build program, and I'm betting you've got one on hand! Thanks! (Courtney)
This is a very common problem for riders to have in varying degrees. Some horses (such as yours) always seem to be looking for that fifth leg (your hands) to lean on for balance and support... and others just have minor instances of this problem during difficult movements and temporary moments of loss of balance. Your horse needs to learn to respond to half halts correctly, so that he can carry himself, instead of trying to use you for support. (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 161: I've read your article about different types of boots for the event horse. I currently have two pair of Woof neoprene boots, but am an the market for new boots (starting to wear out some). I have been happy with the quality of the boot thus far, but I've heard as you move up the levels (Prelim and above) the neoprene boots might not offer enough protection. Since my horse is currently going Training, I figured I might as well buy the boots for when we hopefully move up the levels. Or if she doesn't move up, for the next one who might. Anyway wondering what boots you would recommend for Prelim and above. Thanks very much! (Kayla)
Horses are amazingly adaptive! It is definitely not "absolutely necesary" to blanket horses in cold weather. As long as they are healthy and well fed, horses will adapt and grow a nice thick winter coat. Which will give them the ability to thermoregulate and adapt to constantly changing temperatures. Blanketing and clipping completely prevent the horse from being able to use their coats for that purpose. Once you do either, you must be diligent about changing blankets as the temperature changes, to make sure the horse is comfortable.
The question of whether or not to blanket will usually depend on... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 157: What do you think about flocking a saddle to account for rider or horse "unevenness"? (Current freebie!)After a lesson or riding session, my saddle always slips right and my right leg hangs longer than the left. Not sure if it is due from my physical left side weakness or if it is from the way my horse goes. My saddle fitter flocked both my jump and dressage saddles higher / firmer on the right to help keep me level. It does seem to help, but I am concerned whether this will be harmful to my horse. Slipping right can't be good for my horse but what about building up the saddle like this? Any suggestions? (Julie)
Well as you know, the free walk involves the horse stretching down and forward with his head and neck, marching with a longer stride and a clear overstep, but in a clear and even rhythm. The extended walk... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 155: My daughter has just moved up to Novice, and I realize that crisp halts are now important. Her horse had a injury to a back foot several years ago. Now when she halts at the end of her test, the horse tries to cock his foot up leaving a sloppy halt. When you start to halt, should you be "feeling" for which leg is stepping under neath to give the cue for a halt? (Lynette)
Hi Lynette!
If the horse is sound, I doubt that his previous injury has anything to do with this tendency. Most horses have a lazier or weaker hind leg, and the halt is often a consistent place for this to show up. It is common for the horse to halt with the lazier hind leg "out behind" him... and that may or may not involve resting or cocking that foot up as well. To correct this tendency, you need to focus on activating that lazy hind leg! Here's how: (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 154: I have a student who has been working really hard to move up from cross rails to 2 ft. Though she understands the mechanics and reasons behind not jumping ahead, she struggles with waiting at the base…...and tends to push off her toe on the stirrup and gets too straight in her knee/hip angle and too far forwards with her torso. Then she gets "popped" a bit over the jump since her angles are too straight and rigid. This mostly happens when she doesn't have the pony in front of her leg all the way across the jump - she will have a great canter and then two strides out she'll start leaning a bit/getting on her toe a bit and not keep the pony forward, pony still jumps because she is good, but then it gets messy. I've tried videoing her to show her, we've jumped cross rails without stirrups, done lots of two point work cantering over poles, told her to keep her hips back, to just ride the jump like its just another canter stride and stay quite and just follow with her hands etc etc. Nothing seems to really be doing the trick. Wondering if you have any exercises that may help with this? (Vita)
Well with The Bravery Test, as with most tests and guidelines, there are almost always exceptions. He may turn out to be too timid to be a good Eventer, or he may be just fine as long as you are careful about how you introduce him to things. With this type of horse, I would... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 152: I have a question regarding the seasonal planning for horse training. I used to live in Sweden, and there we got 2 quite distinct relaxation periods for our horses. In the summer, all the horses go out to pasture, and most of them get some time off. It's easy to check in on each other's horses, so as a horse owner, you could leave for a few weeks and not worry about your horse rotting in his/her stall.
In the winter, we usually had to give the horses an easier time because of very adverse weather conditions. Sure, we'd both do dressage, jump and go galloping in the snow too, but a lot of the time, it just wasn't possible because of snow and wind. Again, the horses did get out in decently sized pastures where they could run and play together.
I now live in California, and I'm not sure how to plan my horse's exercise. It's never too hot or too cold to get out and ride, so there are no natural resting periods. Also, I live in a metropolitan area, so though my horse gets turned out pretty much every day, her paddock is only about twice the size of her stall, so no exercise at all there.
I have had my 7-year-old mare for about 18 months now, and she has yet to get more than 2-3 days off in a row, ever. I do take a few weeks here and there where we don't jump at all (otherwise 1-2 times/week), and we definitely ease up on the dressage in between shows, but I feel like it would be cruel to not let her move around at all. What is standard practice here - does the horse need a real vacation, and if so, would that mean temporarily sending her off to pasture a few hours away? (Nanna)
Hi Nanna!
You bring up a very important subject here, as it is very important to keep our horses fresh, happy, and healthy! I feel that all horses.... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to reaf full answer)Question # 151: I can't seem to find a bit that my OTTB doesn't want to spit out of his mouth...The minute I put the bridle on, he instantly begins trying to spit out the bit. I've tried a plethora of bits: mullen mouth, happy mouth, Myler Level 1 (the smaller diameter version), Double-jointed snaffles with a smooth oval lozenge, etc. He definitely has a low palate, so I tried a Happy Mouth mullen mouth bit‹he hated it. The issue seems to be his tongue. I suspect perhaps his tongue was tied down on the track? I've also tried hanging the bit higher and lower. I have not tried any of the yummy bit stuff. At any rate, it's affecting our connection because he concentrates so hard on trying to spit out the offending mouthpiece! I do not overtighten his noseband or use a flash. Any suggestions? (Courtney)
He doesn't do anything bad, his neck is just tight, he's not through. His tenseness has gotten worse since we're riding Novice and our tests are early, 8am. How do I calm/relax him before our event dressage tests?
My current approach is to: 1. walk him around the dressage arena the night before 2. start warming up 1 hour before 3. walk a lot, talking to him and allowing him to stretch out 4. do lots of walk-trot-walk transitions, canter-walk transitions and shoulder in.
I'll take any ideas: preparation, warm up, supplements that might help.. drugs for him or me ;) Thanks! (Catherine)
Whenever a horse lifts one knee higher than the other over a jump, it is usually indicative of a horse that is out of balance laterally. That low right knee means that your horse.... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 148: I'm finding it very hard to think further ahead than the next fence when jumping a course. I find I concentrate on riding that fence, then land, and think 'Now where.... ahh yes'. By then I've inevitably landed on the wrong lead.... or lost my nice rhythmical canter. Is there anything I can do - any exercises (on or off horse) to get myself thinking further ahead, or is it just a case of practice...practice...practice? I'm happy to do the practice, but if there is some advice you can give that would help now, I'd really appreciate it! Many thanks (Catherine)
This is a great question, as so many riders struggle to find that elusive elastic connection with their horse's mouth! First of all, before a rider has any real chance of finding a good rein connection, they must... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 145: I have a very busy brain. Because of this I over think everything! Unless it is a very complicated question... I can complete complicated jumps with ease, ...but I often mess up on simple outside lines. This frustrates my trainer to no end. I have only been riding 19 months and eventing for 4 months. I know that if I can fix this now I will do better in the long run. Any suggestions on how to help with over thinking? Anything helps, thanks! (Katie)
Hi Katie!
Ah, the joys of an over active mind! You are probably highly intelligent, with a higher than average ability to process and apply information. This, like any other trait, has its pros and cons. As you describe, you will thrive when things get hard... which is when many riders become overwhelmed. But you will have to learn to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 144: I have a question about riding my horse down hills.I know that it's a great exercise for increasing carrying power in the hind legs (which is something my horse really needs, as he is built with more pushing power, and most of his hind leg motion is from hips back), but my horse is rather "squirelly" when he goes down the hill, trying to swing his body from side to side to avoid the work. What suggestions do you have for solving this problem, or other exercises to do to improve his carrying power? (Aidan)
This is a topic where there is no one right answer - as each horse and each situation can be slightly different. But there are some general guidelines to keep in mind. These are as follows: (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Question # 142: I was asked to ride a log oxer that had a 2.5 ft drop down to a very slight down hill terrain change. I was instructed to ride it in balance (staying in the center of the horse), flowing, shoulders up and to stay with the horses motion and that it was not necessary to slide the reins and push your heels forward on drops of this size. I have had instructors who have told me to slide the reins at this jump. At what height, types of drops and when do you need to slide the reins? (Kristi)
Hi Kristi!
It is so hard to know what to do when you get conflicting advice like this, isn't it? The way I look at this situation... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 141: My mare has been having some sort of mental breakdown for the last few weeks, and I think we've narrowed the problem down to herd separation anxiety.It is so bad that she doesn't even want to eat her grain (which we isolate her to feed her since none of the other horses get grain) about half the time. She'll eat ok if I stand with her when she is eating. The weird thing is that she has been in a herd since I've owned her (11 years). She's never had any problems with separation anxiety before, and this started about 3 weeks ago. I can sometimes ride her in the arena right by the house and she does ok, but I can't really get any good work done down in the hay field where we jump because it is too far away from the horses. I can't tie her where my tack is because it is too close to the pasture and if the horses walk away where she can't see them anymore she just paces and I can't really do anything to get her to stand still or pay attention to me. I've been doing mostly groundwork last week and she has improved some on the ground, but under saddle she is still a nervous wreck. Today I trailered her over to a nearby barn, and she was fantastic. She tied wonderfully to the trailer, was super calm, and was great under saddle. I would like to not have to trailer her in order to get a successful ride in, do you have any ideas on how to deal with this problem? (Kayla)
Hi Kayla!
I'm sorry to hear that you are having this problem! Whenever a horse has any sudden change in personality or behavior, I think it is always a good idea to have them fully checked out to make sure there is not a physical issue. Ulcers are the first thing that comes to mind. I would either have her scoped, or just do a week or so of Ulcergard treatement as a diagnostic test. If her behavior goes back to normal when on a trial of Ulcergard, then you will know that ulcers were likely contributing to your problem. You may want to have a vet check for things like ovarian cysts, which can make a mare uncomfortable enough to act unpredictably.
If everything checks out physically, then there are a few things you can experiment with... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 140: I have a question about lunging. Normally my horse is very good on the lunge line, but I have started lunging her out in pasture we also use for xcountry schooling in order to help her realize this is a place to work and get her to calm down some before we ride out there (our first ride in the field didn't go so well....). She is much less attentive to me and my commands while we're out there. The biggest issues we're having on the lunge is that she cuts in toward me for about half the circle and I can't get her to slow down. I try to spend a lot of time making her calmly walk on the lunge line and get her focus back on me. Sometimes she does, sometimes she just takes off trotting. Once she is sufficiently calm walking on the lunge, I ask her to trot, and so on. Once she's trotting (not so much at the canter), she trots VERY fast and I have a hard time getting her to slow down. At both the trot and the canter it takes sometimes up to 3-4 times around the circle for her to come down to the next gait once I've asked her to. Any suggestions on how to handle this? (Kayla)
Well, I think the very best thing to do is to practice at home to learn to feel what each speed feels like for your horse. You do this by... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 138: My horse and I haven't been jumping too long, and have just started getting to the 2'3" to 2'6" heights.As we got higher than two feet, some of her bad habits have become more apparent, such as slowing down coming towards a jump and getting the deep distance every. single. time. I'm not skilled enough to help her get the right distance yet, and I have a feeling that's the majority of her problem. She'll see the jump, feel strong and forward and excited and ready for it, then it's like she loses confidence as she gets closer, and often ends up stutter-stepping or trotting then jumping. And now with a slightly higher height, she often ends up stopping, or stopping and then jumping from a dead stop (which often ends with me on her neck or on the ground). I know I'm making things worse now because I'm anticipating her stopping. We need to be moving at a faster pace, she's cantering practically western pleasure style right now thanks to having a ridiculously tiny arena to jump in where she couldn't get a good canter. But until we get her to the right distance where she can confidently take off, our rhythm is going to be all over the place. I was thinking gymnastics might help her, but wanted to know what you thought we should do? I've dropped her back down to her comfortable, easy 2 feet for now until we get this straightened out. Thanks! (Holly)
This is a very good question! As there is a "right" amount for every situation. The outside rein connection is integral to dressage. Riders should strive for the outside rein to remain consistently and elasticly connected throughout their work. Why is it so important? It's what allows circles, corners, and lateral work to improve the balance and self carriage of the horse... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 136: I have a question about a problem that I am having with my mare on cross country. When we do our gallop sets in particular, I work on her being adjustable. When I close my hands to ask her to come back she avoids this by moving her body sideways. It is never the same direction she goes, and I try closing my leg and "outside" rein to keep her from wiggling, which helps some, but still not enough. What should I do? (Kayla)
Hi Kayla!
What you are describing is actually quite common! This is similar to what happens to the tractor trailer or a truck and trailer when the front brakes are applied too strongly. The energy in the back end of the vehicle overpowers the front end, and the result is a jack knifed situation:
To avoid a jack knife situation like this, the rear brakes (the ones on the trailer) need to be as equally engaged as the front brakes (the ones on the truck). And the same is true when you are riding. Too much hand will almost always cause a strong horse to go sideways. What you need to do instead is to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 135: I have been having an issue with my lesson jumper horse. He's about 12 years old, been doing this job for a while now. I also ride him for tune up rides and when I need to feel what he does so I can better explain to students what they should be doing. He normally is a great jumper! Very honest and has great scope. (sometimes too much) What the issue is that he tends to switch leads in front of jumps. Not all of them, it's quite random actually. I know switching leads isn't that big of a deal, but what he does is shuffle right where he should be taking off, then taking a short spot and jumping you out of the saddle. I have had good luck pushing for the whole stride, because if he doesn't come at the fence forward, then its more likely he will do this. 8x out of 10, he will find a good spot without shuffling if you can actively drive him forward and take the right spot, but the other 2x he will take the strange step that can end up him jumping from an almost standstill and popping you out of the tack. What exercises would you suggest for me work on to help this? Thanks! (Laura)
This is a fairly common problem for riders to encounter when attempting to stretch a horse that is on the hot side. And is telling that there is... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 130: I have a 5 yo OTTB gelding (10 months off the track) that I would really like to hack out more. However, the few times I have tried, he's been a little anxious in the open field. The last time I took him on a hack (only walking always), he bolted and left me eating dirt after running for a good minute going down hill. I was nervous to use a pulley rein since I never have before especially on uneven terrain. He is an exceptional, calm, and non-spooky horse in all other situations, and handles everything in stride. I would love some tips on building my confidence to hack out, and how to best handle this situation. I've tried pairing with a calm trail horse, but he seems the same when with or without company. I would also like to know if I should be riding him on loose reins vs on the aids. Thanks! (Anonymous)
Well that's no fun, is it?? It sounds like the poor guy is just very anxious and uncomfortable out in big open spaces. What is his turnout like? If he is currently in a small paddock, you might want to see if you can find him a large field to go in with a calm buddy. That way he can be working on his anxiety in big open spaces the whole time he is out there. Let him live outside if possible. It is such a shame how many race horses never see anything of the world outside of their stalls and the track.
Don't worry! This is a perfectly normal reaction for many people after having been away from the sport for a while! All you need to do is... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 128: Could you explain the proper aids required (and timing) for lengthening at the trot and canter?I am preparing for first level on a PSG schoolmaster (I know! Lucky me!), so he is well trained, but I need to be more consistent with my aids - sometimes I do everything correctly and beautifully, but I never quite remember exactly what it was that I did. (Karrie)
Hi Karrie!
What a great opportunity for you! It can be so helpful to learn to do movements on a horse that is well schooled! If you find and push the right "buttons", they will let you know by performing the movement correctly. There is almost no better way to learn! I am excited for you! As for asking for a trot lengthening... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 127: When teaching, and you are working with a student who has been taught theories that are different from what you teach, how do you handle that? How do you get them to at least try it your way without denigrating the way the other instructor teaches? I want my students to always go home feeling like they got a lot out of it instead of thinking that I don't have a clue what I am talking about! (Kelly)
Hi Kelly!
This is always a challenge for us instructors, isn't it?? There are SO many differenty theories and systems being taught out there that this is bound to happen regularly! I think the key to handling this situation is to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 126: How much leg is too much leg? I have been riding for about 5 years and I have always ridden with almost no leg on our QHs/Appys unless I'm doing something laterally. In other words, I just pretty much let it lay there. Recently, I have been riding very large moving horses, and my lower leg is all OVER the place! At the canter, my lower leg swings forward and backward with the horse's motion. I find I have to really put leg on and sink deep into my heels to keep my lower leg half way quiet. Is that reasonable, or am I doing something else incorrectly that is screwing my lower leg up? Exercises for strengthening the lower leg would also be appreciated! (Karen)
Hi Karen!
This is a great question! As I think many riders struggle with a lower leg that swings back and forth some at the canter. Yet to keep that leg quiet by clamping it tightly to the horse's side will cause the horse to become dull to the leg aids. And we certainly can't have that! When a rider's lower leg swings back and forth, it is usually because either they have... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 125: I have a question about bravery in the field and jumping without schooling first.My big horse is also a big chicken - when he's alone. If other horses are around he's quite brave and very tactile. If you can get him to touch it - he'll jump it. He enjoys jumping. His ears prick up and you can fel him really pulling you to the fence. But he is so spooky if there are no other horses with us. If no one else is working in the ring, I have to have a babysitter horse in there with us when I jump. This fear of him being so spooky alone has been one of the major obstacles keeping me from competing. We have lots of fun schooling cross country because I can walk him up to it, let him touch it, jump it and move on. Once he's jumped it I can put him together and have multiple fences in a row. I don't know that I could get him to a new place and have him jump BN fences without schooling... and there won't be any buddies out there either. Do you have any suggestions on how I can help build his confidence when along and how to get him to jump without schooling first? (Carolyn)
Hi Carolyn!
This can be a tough problem unfortunately, and is a reason some horses just will not make Event horses. But I have some ideas of things for you to try! First of all, I would... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
First of all, I'm sorry to hear about your hip surgery! I hope that you will have a smooth and full recovery! And second - good for you for being productive in your downtime! Going back to the basics to try to help your horse to become more even and supple will definitely pay off in the long run. I am sure you will feel the difference once you are ready to get back in the saddle.
Well Henry is no dummy, and you have done steeplechase at that facility several times! So I'm not that surprised to hear that he is quite "up". The extra fitness required for a 3 day at any level can be enough to light many a horses' fire as well! What I would do is... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 122: My horse is taking off with me in the canter! When I ride out with other horses, my horse is starting to get very strong. If we are in front, I can handle her.If we are not in front, she wants to take off. If is sit and hold her really tightly she gets angry with me (head shaking, bucking), which would be fine except it slows us down, which in turn escalades the problem, since we are then left behind! I like to ride on loose reins when I am hacking because we just want to relax and have fun with our friends, but lately she has been literally taking off with me when I do! Any suggestions? Should I try a stronger bit? (Anonymous)
Sometimes something as simple as asking for lateral flexion at the poll to the inside can completely fix this problem. And other times, usually when the horse is quite crooked in its body, you will need to do something more dramatic than that.
She is a very naturally fit horse, so I have a hard time identifying if she is fatigued or if I am pushing her too hard. What exercises would you suggest to slowly bring her back into jumping? (Kayla)
Hi Kayla!
It can definitely be hard to judge the true fitness level of a horse when you are dealing with the lively, naturally active type! They never act tired, so how do you know how fast to bring them along? And sometimes when you are trying to bring them back slowly by following a progressive program, they seem to be begging you to do more! For their sake, you need to make sure that you do not let them talk you into doing too much too soon! The general rule of thumb is to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Rhythm and tempo are SO important in dressage (and jumping), as rhythm and balance go hand in hand. When the horse is maintaining a good rhythm and an even tempo as he performs movements, you likely have both relaxation and a consistent level of balance.
Galloping between fences we want to leave our horses alone as much as possible, so that they can be relaxed in their bodies and move freely. Yet if we can teach them to gallop in good balance, it makes it much easier to prepare for each jump. And it can also keep them sounder! Whether or not you should let your horse stay low in front at the gallop depends on... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 116: I'm not a gadget person - I don't own draw reins, a chambon, or even a running martingale. However, after lots and lots of time (nearly a year) trying to convince my OTTB that stretching forward and down into contact is far better than..hollowing out and inverting with limited results, I'm starting to wonder if a 'gadget' might help get us on the path to success. Given that we've had some success--it doesn't appear to be painful for him, and occasionally we get good moments of forward, relaxed swinging back type movement, I'm thinking that basically, his opinion is, "Look, lady, I've been doing this for 11 years. What you're asking me to do requires building muscle in new places, and that's a lot of work." I'd love to show him that my way is better for him in the long run, but we're not seeing eye to eye! (He naturally moves hollowed out, head up in the air at liberty, unless he's showing off for a new lady--then he suddenly turns into dressage pony, all up through his back...so I know he's physically capable.) In this case, would you suggest temporarily using a gadget to help him see the light? I get a lot of different opinions on this, and I'd just like to hear your perspective. (Courtney)
Hi Courtney!
I am personally very anti gadget for under saddle work. Any device whose purpose is soley to put the horse's head down has the potential to teach the horse something that we don't really want him to learn. And that is to "give" to pressure of the bit by dropping his head or by tucking his nose closer to his chest. In dressage we want our horse to seek the connection of the bit, instead of learning to drop his head on command. When I have a horse that is so naturally upside down like yours, I usually show him how to move into the connection by... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 115: I am training my young horse myself. He is a 17.2 hand Oldenburg gelding, just turning 5. Last summer I did some basic flatwork and hacking with him, and he did great!I gave him this winter off, and am now bringing him back into work again. And now he is so different, I just don't know what is going on! He used to be so sweet and happy, and seemed to enjoy being ridden. Now he pins his ears, threatens to kick out when I put my leg on him, and doesn't want to go forward. He is still his same sweet self on the ground. I am at a loss as to why he would make such a dramatic change like this! What should I do? Maybe I'm not up to this and need to send him away for training? Please help! (Anonymous)
Whenever any horse has a drastic change in attitude, my first thought is usually that there might be a pain issue. So even if you think your horse is completely sound, I would have a lameness specialist do a full workup on him to make sure. Many times with horses that have back or SI (sacroiliac) issues, poor performance and/or a bad attitude are the only noticable symptoms. While any vet can look at these areas, lameness specialists are more apt to have seen lots of horses with inconspicuous performance issues. I would also have your saddle looked at by a reputable saddle fitter. Even if it fit him great last summer, it may not now - as he is young and is busy growing and filling out. Also make sure his teeth have been checked.
His trot to canter has improved immensely. He is quiet and remains balanced and on the bridle. We've started working on walk to canter and no matter how quiet we try to keep things, he gets a bit frazzled. The head flies up, back inverts. Mind you, this is what it was like for trot to canter last year! We ensure that he has a nice active walk behind before asking, and we're allowing a few tiny trot steps before the canter with the idea that we can gradually reduce those trot steps. Is it just a matter of time like it was with trot to canter, or is there something else we can be keeping in mind? (Nicole)
Hi Nicole!
Walk to canter transitions are actually easier than trot to canter for horses in some ways... physically they are not very hard, and there is less of a tendency for the horse to have balance issues. The main challenges involved in walk to canter transitions are that of ensuring that there is sufficient energy in the walk, keeping the horse straight, the timing and clarity of the rider's aid, and the horse's understanding of what you are asking.... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Stretching down IS a great exercise, but is really only beneficial if done correctly. And many clever horses have figured out that... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 112: Can we talk about saddle fit for the rider? I am saddle shopping and have been for a year. (Current Freebie!)...I tend to like a deeper seated saddle, but I find myself hitting the cantle or bringing my seat too far forward when jumping seemingly as a result. Can we discuss saddle flap length and position, and seat depth and width, and how it relates to the riders' position and ability to find balance? Thanks! (Aubrey)
Hi Aubrey!
Oh I feel for you, saddle shopping can be so frustrating! What you describe is exactly why deap seated saddles are NOT usually recommended for jumping. Especially for cross country - a longer, flatter seat and a more forward cut flap allow you to move your hips back without hitting the cantle, which is necessary for security. And this becomes REALLY important on the bigger drop fences!
...I got on and he was pretty tense and I basically just walked around for a minute and then he just started bucking to get me off. It wasn’t a bad fall and that’s what gets me, I don’t know why I’m having such a hard time regaining my confidence again with him. I am pretty tense that he is going to run away with me again when I let him canter around the outdoor. But he hasn't. Whenever it comes time to canter I get all quivery and nervous. Though he has proved to have been a good boy since his odd bucking thing, he is young and it’s hard for me not to think of the “what ifs” when I ride. I lunge him before our rides and he is generally not a spooky horse. I need help getting over the tenseness which has made me into a unconfident rider. Especially at the canter I grab the inside rein to turn him (because sometimes he feels like he won’t turn if I don’t) and I have a hard time letting him go on the inside (rein). So we have the turning issue which my trainer has been working with us on a lot and it has gotten better but I still grab the inside a lot more than necessary and it is driving me nuts that I can’t let it go! But i swear we wont turn if I don't! At least that is how I feel. And then I have my confidence problem. I’ve been able to ride my trainer schoolmaster mare a lot and that has helped my confidence, but I’d like your input on how to get over this issue...I know I need to take things slow and build on small accomplishments with me and my horse. But I get really mad at myself because I never used to be so tentative like this. (Shannon)
Hi Shannon!
It's always hard to let go of those unfortunate isolated incidences! You will probably never forget what happened, but you will have to find a way to get past it. What has always helped me come back from my falls was to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Someone watching said that I threw myself up his neck the stride before, and when he took the deep spot a stride later, I just went flying out of the tack. Regardless of what started it, now I seem to be riding like I did in 2009 - leaping up his neck, no weight in my feet. I'm trying really hard to think positive - HEELS FORWARD AND DOWN! This is the first time I've ever felt afraid jumping. What is your advice? Keep working without stirrups? Move down a level? (Briana)
Hi Briana!
I'm so sorry to hear about that! And I'm so glad that you are OK! You may not see it right now, but there is actually a silver lining here. And that is that you... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
The stirrups are sitting on the arch of their foot instead of the ball. Can you discuss stirrup placement? Does the thinking change at the upper levels? (Briana)
Hi Briana!
Traditionally, cross country riders have often kept their feet a bit more "home" in the stirrups as they move up the levels - as it can make it less likely for the rider to lose a stirrup in a sticky moment. Perhaps because I am so short, with such short legs, it... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
This is a very common problem, and one that almost everyone experiences to some degree when they are in the process of developing the connection. It's such a great feeling when you feel those brief moments of the horse being truly connected! And then it's equally as frustrating to feel it slipping away moments later! To help your horse understand that he should stay on the aids, you need to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 107: The lovely friesian I ride, Rhett, and I are having some troubles getting the leg yield together. First off, he is super bendy, and has what I call a "go go gadget" neck that can shorten up like nothing I have ever experienced. This is our main probelm, he uses this as an evasion when I am asking for him to leg yield. I ask, he shortens up his neck, the reins go loose, and he falls out through his shoulder, and it goes all wrong. How can I fix this? Thanks (Rebecca)
This is a big problem! As you will not advance or improve on a horse that does not listen to your leg aids! When riding a horse like this, the temptation is to use lots of leg to try to keep the horse going. And this compounds the problem! The more leg you use, the more insensitive your horse will become! The only answer is to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Question # 102: At what height should I carry my hands when jumping? (Anonymous) This is a great question! And is somewhat of a controverial subject. Of course it will depend on the individual horse, but in general I am in the camp of... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 101: My horse has a problem with combinations of fences with 1 or 2 strides between them. He grabs hold of the bit and just goes as hard as he can, flat and strung out...It's like a switch is activated in his brain - he has no concept of being careful, controlled, or even that I'm on his back. It doesn't seem to matter if I'm trotting or cantering on approach, with lots of forward energy or slow and steady. The only pattern seems to be that it's combination fences with 1-2 strides between. He is 17h, but is somewhat weak in the hind end - could he feel overfaced when we jump these combinations? Could he see the second fence and incorrectly judge it as a very wide oxer and think he needs the power to clear them both? I'm at a loss here! What would you suggest for #1, the response I should immediately have, and #2, the long term fix? (Courtney)
There are two main causes for horses to fall from the canter into trot as you describe. One is the rider... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
I think that for the lower level Event rider, the most ideal situation is to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question # 98: HOW do I do what you said about using core/back rather than tiring out arms shoulders? Literally, do I let my arms extend, then use my back, or lean back more (water ski)? (Andi)Hi Andi! This is a great question, as the correct application of these aids makes the difference between success and compounded problems. Riders of strong horses must learn this concept to get the best performance out of them. When doing the off the horse exercise suggested in this article, practice finding the strength of your body by... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 97: I have an 11yo OTTB who is a roarer and whom I am competing at novice level this year. We are doing great on XC and in SJ, but we are struggling in dressage.More specifically, we are struggling with submission at the trot. At the walk, it is possible to get Johnny moving forward into contact, and he will chew the reins out of my hands if allowed. At the canter, he will either have a beautiful, light canter where I feel like I am so connected I could ask for a pirouette, or he panics and thinks he is at the races again (though the latter is becoming more and more rare, so I think it is mostly mental). And, at the walk and canter, I can drop the inside rein for several strides, or even both reins for one or two strides. But...at the trot, I get one of two responses: either a very slow, short-strided trot (almost like a western pleasure jog), or if I ask him to move forward, he flattens out, evades contact, and rushes--my instructor calls it his giraffe trot. It's impossible to sit, much less do anything effective with my seat. I can slow my posting down and get him to slow down, but the connection still isn't there. I've heard two schools of thought for him: slow, slow, slow his trot down, then build him up once the connection improves, or send him forward, forward, forward into spiral-in, circles, etc. The problem is, neither seems to be working for him. Without forwardness, I don't feel like there's any energy to contain, and when I send him forward, he is so evasive of contact that my half-halts are ineffective. Any suggestions? (Courtney)
Hi Courtney!
With the type of horse that gets tight and tense when the rider asks for more forward energy, rushing and becoming erratic and irregular in its rhythm - you definitely want to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Many horses go through a stage where they go from not wanting any contact, to seeing how they can use it to their advantage! So if he was reluctant to take any feel of the rein before, and is now looking to lean on you for a little support, that may be what is happening here.
Horses lean on the bit for support when their hind legs are not sufficiently underneath their bodies. Without their hind legs under them to balance, they may then try to use the rider's hands as sort of a "fifth leg" to hold up their front ends. The fix for this problem is to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read the full answer to this question)
Question # 93: My young horse Danny is 1.5 years old. He leads, ties, loads, hauls, gets groomed, does the farrier and vet thing, and is all around a good horse. He has been on a ton of trail rides being ponied with Fleck and does pretty well for that. He's crossed creeks, gone up and down banks and over ditches while ponied and in hand. He's done some in hand work but is pretty wild when in front of other people (Like the FEH shows) but at home is better. He is good at the walk but gets too excited in the trot. He's very mouthy and a chain doesn't seem to help, nor does letting him chew on his chain/lead. I've bought a chitney bit (chutney? chifney?) and am going to try that. I've done one session of round penning/joining up and he did well. He knows to yield to the touch and is good at respecting my space (mostly). He knows to stay with me (mostly) when being led and even without a rope, he stays at my side and with me. But I haven't done much round pen work. He's too young I think and my round pen is more of a large oval pen. BUT... he's VERY bored... and very smart! And very Irish ;) His go to move is to stop and plant and he almost "shuts off". But when he's done thinking.. he's fine again. I'm wondering what else I can be doing with him to help keep his brain working and further his education without pushing him. I don't want to hurry things, but want him to be a good kid. Oh, he's had a saddle and bridle on (the bridle with bit but only for a few minutes). He gets clippers but is still touchy about his face. He's had on wraps and boots and clothes. He lets me touch his ears and his sheath. He gets bathed and fly sprayed. I've tried teaching him "touch it" where he touches his nose to something and gets a treat. He does that game fairly well. He's just too smart and too bored! Fleck and Roany don't play with him. Any advice?? (Holly)
Hi Holly!
It sure sounds like you have covered all of your bases! Maybe teach him some tricks? I usually teach my horses to bow on command. I like to do this because I can ask them to bow on a daily basis, and it seems to be a good stretch for their backs. A lot of times they will extend their front legs and sit back and stretch like a cat after bowing, as they learn that stretching their bodies feels good. It is also good mental stimulation to teach them a trick. Whatever the trick is, they learn the concept that it is up to them to figure out what you want them to do.
One thing that stands out with what you wrote, however, is that of his tendency to stop and plant himself. I would be inclined to nip this habit in the bud now, before it gets too confirmed. While I don't want to discourage a young horse from stopping and thinking about things, teach him now that he can think while he moves, and that refusing to move is unacceptable. Do this by... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 92: I'm having a hard time getting a canter to walk on Fleck without trot steps or having to be too hard with my aids. I've found that if I think of changing the bend as I'm asking for the downward, it helps. But is that going to mess up future aids (like flying changes?). I know I'm supposed to "land the airplane", but I cannot get a decent downward. His walk to canters are pretty good but he gets a little amped up and anticipatory. (Holly)
Hi Holly!
Canter to walk transitions can be hard for some horses! In order to do them well, the horse must be completely straight and balanced, and must be actively "sitting" behind. The key to making the transition smooth, and with no trot steps is to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 91: Should we be hacking our horses on loose reins or in a frame? (Stacy) Hi Stacy!
I do use them. I feel that they are useful for keeping the bit more consistently still in the corners of the horse's mouth. And they can help to prevent major bit evasions like crossing the jaw, sticking the tongue out, or getting the tongue over the bit from becoming a habit. In using a flash noseband right from the beginning of the horse's training, I can hopefully prevent any of these bad habits from developing in the first place.
The reason that there is so much controversy over the flash, is that so many use it (or a crank noseband) to clamp their horse's mouth tightly shut, in an vain effort to disguise the fact that their horse is not accepting the bit. Those who do this are not fooling anyone. The judge doesn't need to see a horse's mouth gaping open to know that he is not accepting the connection. It is readily apparent in the horse's body and way of movement. The horse that has his mouth clamped tightly shut cannot fully relax his jaw, softly chew on the bit, or swallow. All of these things will serve to prevent the horse from being happily and honestly connected.
When you move up from Novice to Training level Eventing, you begin to be tested on the difference between speed and impulsion at the gallop, your ability to balance at the increased speed required, and your horse's ability to focus at speed. At the Novice level, your horse can be in a "huntery" frame, and he can still jump around happily. But at Training level that begins to change. Some Training level questions on cross country will catch you out if you are in a long, huntery frame, without some true impulsion.
I think that the concept of using your thighs to stop is fairly evenly split in the dressage world. A number of trainers teach it, and a good number do not agree. The way I look at it is that it definitely works to stop or half halt by tightening your thighs, but it has the drawback of causing many horses to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Question # 86: My horse is so fussy in a bit, she is always moving the bit around and chomping on it. Her head is never still! And the judges really mark us down for this. I have recently tried her in a hackamore, and she goes so much better! I know that I can't use this during the dressage phase. But I was wondering if you thought it would be a good idea to do most of her flatwork schooling at home in the hackamore which she seems so happy with, and just use the bit for the shows. Or do you think I should just keep working on her acceptance of the bit? (Chris)
Hi Chris!
I don't think it would be a good idea to train in the hackamore, since as you said, you can't show in one. You can't improve on your horse's acceptance of the bit without a bit! You didn't say what kind of bit you have been using, but you may want to try a... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer) Question # 85: I desperately need help with Training Test B. I loathe it... hate it... wish it would die a fiery death.The problem is that this test throws everything at me too quickly and it accentuates all of our issues. We start down centerline just fine, do a great figure eight, and can even get a lovely trot with shoulder in to the left lead canter. I'm still not great at riding the canter lengthening on the circle, but it's not horrible this direction.
Then we come down to the walk and then the downfall starts. It's a vicious spiral. I can get a decent free walk sometimes, but guaranteed... every single time I ask for the medium walk, he anticipates and starts jigging. Even at home I cannot get a nice medium walk but every 5th time. I've tried bending him around my leg, I've tried making sure my hips continue to move, I've tried leaving the reins long and not really getting a true medium walk.... but regardless I can't figure out how to get a true free to medium without him anticipating. So then we're fighting or jigging and that sets us up for a horrible trot transition.
Then the next movement is the right lead canter. Fleck tends to travel haunches in pretty obviously this direction and it's our "bad" lead. So I try my hardest to do shoulder in, but that seems to indicate canter to him, so we break into the canter early or it's a tense transition because I'm trying so hard to keep him at the trot until I ask. Then our canter is haunches in and rushed and yesterday... very bouncy and braced. Obviously the lengthen doesn't go well and often we break too early coming back down because I ask for the collection without keeping my leg on. So then our trot ends up being a little bit on the forehand and rushed. I've tried my hardest to collect, rock him back, think walk, even almost truly HALF halt (do the walk for half a step then back into the trot trick)... and I just don't seem to have enough time to get him balanced before we then have to do our stretchy trot... hence the stretchy trot being on the forehand and running.
I just wish I could find a way to ride this test better. I don't know if I get flustered... I can put in a decent tests on the other tests, but this one just.... really annihilates us. Help please!!! (Holly)
Hi Holly!
Wow, good for you for being so aware of all of your problems, and how one problem effects the next! That may sound like a weird thing to say... but I find that many riders don't always realize why their problems develop. And you obviously have a good grasp on how one problem begins the "snowball of problems" effect. Now... on to how to fix it!! (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Question # 84: I've been working with a somewhat-green OTTB mare for about 2 months. Originally she was VERY on the forehand and heavy in the bit. We were making progress but have focused on jumping the last couple weeks, and now instead she is bracing upwards, very tense and hollow.
When we first started canter work she really raced into it, so we did a lot of "now means NOW" upward transitions. The result now is that she's always expecting the canter, and when I do ask she really explodes into it which has caused me to hang on her mouth. So now I'm focusing on asking quietly and staying off the reins even if she bursts forward. Her reaction is to start to explode, then get confused and fall into a strung out trot.
The second part is her downward transition. We haven't focused on that much so it's even worse; even when she's somewhat balanced at the canter it takes a while to get her trot steady, and when her canter is strung out it's half the arena before she's down to a steady working trot. (Kari)
We have an event coming up where the stadium jumping is in a hilly "bowl" shaped field. I seem to have issues with knowing what I need in warmup and thinking I achieve it, only to get into the round and discover I didn't... (Briana)
Hi Briana!
Since you know that the terrain will make your stadium round extra challenging, you will want to make sure your horse is really engaged behind and super responsive to your aids to go forward and come back. To achieve this, spend more time in your warm up doing... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Question # 82: So over the last few months I've come to appreciate that we need to practice full SJ courses. We're great over 3-5 fences in a row, but have very rarely gotten over 12 fences without a loss of balance/rhythm and a bad fence somewhere along the way. So yesterday I set up 18 or so fences across the two fields we have to ride in and tried to make up various courses, but the issue is that 3/4 of one of those fields has a fairly steep slope and it's in between the two flatter areas (so the flat portions on either end are quite small (e.g. 20x45 is about the max - so you can have maybe 3 to 4 fences in that area). The slope seems to be too steep for us to confidently canter down or across - across is actually worse than down, Henry almost always slips making the turn no matter how careful and balanced he is going into it. So it seems like we should be able to use this difficult terrain to our advantage somehow, but so far I have not found an exercise where it felt like we were mastering the hill - mostly it just feels like we "survive" it. Do you have any suggestions for exercises where we could use this as a training tool? and suggestions for how to practice courses with flow? (as opposed to just doing 4-5 jumps, cantering up/down to the other field and doing 4-5 fences)? Thanks! (Briana)
Hi Briana!
Since you will likely not ever have to show jump on a slope as steep as you are describing, I don't think I would try to use that hill as a training tool. At least not until you are able to keep your horse well balanced for entire courses without that added challenge. If you can only fit 4 fences in your small flat area, then I would set them all so that you can jump them both ways, and be creative with different approaches, making a full course in that small space if that's all you have available.
This is a very broad question, as the answer will vary greatly from horse to horse, and in different situations. But one thing is almost always true - between fences I want to... (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Those antics are never fun, are they? Especially rearing... that can be so dangerous! Here's how I would handle these difficulties: (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Question # 79: My horse spooks at the dumbest things!A common problem is tree lines. In the outdoor ring where we are now (and have been there little over a year) he has issues... sometimes major issues (rearing, spinning around, and taking off) in the far end because it's lined with trees and nothing is there. According to my instructor (and I believe her, just don't know how to fix it), it's my fault because I have anxiety about riding outside and think about what has happened and what could happen. But the reason I have anxiety is from what he's done! I aslo think he's trying to get out of work. I do my best to relax and keep him busy, but have been having more problems again lately. Riding isn't fun for me like it should be, and I hate that. (Michelle)
It's not physical, since she'll react the same way to cavalettis, cross rails, or bigger verticals. It's almost like she jumps in and worries that she can't get back out, so she runs out to the side. She is usually eager and confident to fences, but not combinations. She'll back off going into the combinations. I can usually tell we're going to have a problem, but it's hard to just kick her forward since she's got a long stride and she's been known to bounce one strides if she's rolling too much going in. If we've had a bad attempt or two, she'll start skittering sideways as soon as she's presented to the combination, so that's usually our cue that her brain has fried, and we'll break down the combination to get her confidence back. How can I get her more comfortable with combinations? (Catie)
Hi Catie!
This is one of those situations where a video of the problem would help me see exactly what is going on. But I do have a strong suspicion of what is going on! As I have seen this exact problem a few times before! When I tell you what I think is causing your problem, you may think that this is not the case. But please give the corrections a try, as I think you may be surprised! (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
This is a significant problem, as the horse that is not focusing on the ditch at all is often surprised and shocked by the ditch. Not only can this cause a refusal, but it can also undermine the horse's confidence. This is often just a matter of experience, but there are some things you can do at home to teach your horse to focus on what is immediately in front of him, rather than focusing only on what grabs his attention! (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Question # 75: I tried the walk 2 steps and trot exercise tonight with my pony. I figured it would get him to respond better ,and he did at first, but then didn't want to walk and he was anticipating trot. We have the same issue with canter transitions, they get him fired up. Is there any way to modify the exercise without losing the reason for doing it? (Michelle)
If he assumes we're going over a fence, he sometimes makes a slight move toward it and I have to keep him on the path I want. And sometimes he doesn't seem to know we are going to jump the fence we are looking at until we're right on it. What should I be doing to give him a better idea of when we are actually going to jump and which jump I want him to focus on? (Lisa)
Hi Lisa!
This is often a problem with the type of horse that tends to anticipate the rider's requests. The key to helping him focus exactly where you want him to is to....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
There are pros and cons for each, but I actually prefer doing the canter lengthening on the circle. It is easier to get more lengthening when you perform it on the straight line down the long side, but it can be harder to keep the horse balanced.
A recent clinician said that PJ just has a "big pop" over the top of the jumps, that anyone would have a hard time staying with. He encouraged me to ride more forward to fences and get a neck strap for PJ, to assist me in staying closer to him when he pops. My local coach didn't like this AT ALL. He is forever telling me to slow down until I feel like we are crawling, and he hated the neckstrap idea. Please help! (Vita)
Hi Vita!
I have to say, I totally agree with your clinician. When you make a horse go slow to fences, they have to really use all of their power to get over the jump - especially oxers. Which can cause riders to be jumped out of the tack. It's a little counter intuitive - but yes, really riding forward will help him jump more smoothly out of stride, rather than ballooning in the air over his jumps. And a neckstrap is a great idea! There is no drawback to using one, and no shame in using one either! Even William Fox Pitt uses one! To make one, just take a.....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
After his fences, no matter how lovely he was cantering up to the fence, he lands on his forehand. He's very difficult to bring to a trot, he plows through his turns, and I end up pulling on him. Would you suggest I take a few steps back and continue improving his canter, or push through and keep working on jumping courses? He is responsive, and feels balanced in the trot - for the most part - but when I do get a good canter it still takes a lot of effort to keep him together. It's also difficult to get consistently good downward transitions. Even though I am anxious to reach my goal, I don't want to ruin what we have accomplished by skipping a vital part of our training that we'll need as soon as I start him over BN fences. (Lisa)
Hi Lisa!
I would continue putting groups of jumps together (jumping short courses), but have a plan to make it more clear to your horse exactly what you expect of him. When he is unbalanced, strong, and not adjustable after his jumps, instead of just letting him go through the corner somewhat out of control, I would.....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
This is a very common problem! And it shows that the horse is not accepting the contact. First make sure that you are not unintentionally blocking in your arms or wrists, which can make any horse reluctant to go forward into the connection. Read this entry to check your hand position, as having an incorrect hand position is one of the most common ways that riders block a horse. Tight elbows that don't follow the horse's motion are also a common blocker. If you are going to give your horse an inviting connection to move into, you must be able to keep your part of the connection (which is everything between your shoulders and your fingers closed on the reins) elastic like a rubber band or a bungee cord.
Oh that's never fun! When ever you have a horse that has any tendency to do this, you need to....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
I was fine, but he had a bone bruise from where the pole hit his stifle. We've both come back, and we did a Novice event this past Feburary, and finished on our dressage score. We're about to go to our next event, at Training, and I THINK we're ready....but how do you know for sure? There are times I feel like we are a fantastic team, and that we can do it with no problem...then there are times I wonder if I'm doing the right thing. HE seems ready. But how do you know for sure? (Becky)
Hi Becky!
From everything that I have seen of you and your horse, you are both definitely ready for Training level. I think you make a great team! Mistakes happen to everyone - at all levels. You have to recognize exactly what happened, learn from it, and then move on! When you say your horse "caught his leg in an oxer going for a long spot", that tells me that the mistake that you made was.....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
We have 8 weeks until the event. The Novice level endurance day consists of (A) 16 min at 220 mpm, (B) 3 min at 470 mpm, (C) 25 min at 160 mpm, and (D) 5.5 min at 400 mpm. Could you please make suggestions for the conditioning goal for each week? I'm not sure how to ramp things up. (Briana)
Hi Briana!
How exciting to be getting ready for a long format 3 day event! They were always my absolute favorites! For a Novice level 3 day, you.....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
This is a great question! This is a challenge for most riders, especially when they are riding a smart horse with a busy mind like yours! The key is to....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Question # 59: I have a question about the Novice 3D dressage test.
My question is that it has several places where you are traveling across the diagonal, and then do an UPward transition in the corner. Other than using half halts as you approach the rail and trying to use the corner to really re-establish the bend before asking for the transition, do you have any other advice? (Briana)
Hi Briana!
In looking at that test, I see that you change rein KXM, and then canter in the corner between M and C. To nail a good canter transition in that corner you need to....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Well they are not absolutely necessary, but most eventers do use them. The beauty of a well fitted running martingale is that it doesn't do a thing, unless the horse puts his head way up in the air. Then it gives him very clear feedback that he should bring his head back down to the point that he can see where he is going.
He leg yields, and does shoulder fore. I think we have a fairly decent shoulder in and haunches in (I need to get video, or have someone watch us). This is as far as I have ever gotten in lateral work. How do we progress beyond this? What's the next step or thing to aim for and how do we get there? I'm told that half pass can help horses understand flying changes in the canter. PJ often does not change - he finds counter canter easy. I don't mind counter cantering on a course on him because he is so good at it, but I would like to teach him flying changes in case we ever need it. He has done them occasionally, so I know he can. (Vita)
Hi Vita!
That's good to hear that you've been doing your homework on the flat! Good flatwork is what allows your horse to perform to his full potential, as well as making him a joy to ride. With your question regarding the lateral work..... remember that the movements are not an end goal in themselves, but rather a means to an end. Your goal with the lateral work is to....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
..I would really appreciate it. I have multiple horses I can ride everyday...so I don't have to do it all on one horse either. Make it as hard as you'd like! (Vita)
Hi Vita!
Read the answer to this question on how to prepare for a Novice level event, as the skills required are very similar. If you can run through that checklist, and feel that you have a good grasp on all of the skills listed there, that should help you to have a lot of confidence for your first BN event! As for a fitness timeline....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
..even though he does not feel heavy or seem to be leaning on my hands. Is it possible for a horse to be going correctly forward but still be on his forehand? When I ask for any downward transition, even with half halts and me sitting and trying carefully to prepare, it takes way too many steps for him to complete the transition. I have tried to ask with the seat only, but can your horse respond to seat only if they are too much on the forehand? (Sharon)
Hi Sharon!
That's so great to hear that your horse is now consistently in front of your leg! Good job in getting to that point! It is fairly common for a new problem to present itself when you have fixed another. In this case, now that you have your horse thinking more forward, he has more energy to have to balance. So you will now have to work on getting him to carry more weight behind, so that he can handle that increased energy in balance. (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
I was dinged by a judge in one test for picking up the canter more than a quarter of a circle away from the letter. Is closer to the letter better? Would right at the letter be optimal? (Briana)
Hi Briana!
When you are supposed to pick up the canter approaching a letter while on a circle or half circle, you should pick it up.....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
I'm having a really hard time keeping my horse at a slow steady trot because he gradually speeds up and I don't catch it until he's going way faster than he's supposed to be. I've tried counting but I just speed up my counting with my posting speed. Is there anything else I can do? (Erika)
Hi Erika!
This is a great question! Rhythm is SO important in dressage, as rhythm and balance go hand in hand. When the horse is maintaining a good rhythm as he performs movements, you likely have both relaxation and a consistent level of balance.
Let's start by defining both rhythm and tempo as they pertain to riding:
Rhythm - The regularity of the timing of the sequence of footfalls Tempo - The speed of the rhythm
When a horse is having trouble maintaining the rhythm in their gaits, usually one or both of these things is happening - (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Can you describe a training progression for me as to how I would work Henry up to jumping this? (Briana)
Hi Briana!
What a great Christmas present for an Eventer! That will be a great training tool for you and Henry! The difference between a chevron (or an arrowhead) and just an ordinary skinny jump is......(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
I feel like I should be more forward than I would normally be trotting on the flat, but that seems to make Caspian want to canter (Maybe he feels like I am in more of a two point position?? or my leg is sliding back and making contact? He is very responsive to the leg.) (Kirsten)
Hi Kirsten!
The two basic rules of how to stay balanced on a horse are to keep your center of gravity over your base of support (your feet), and to keep your....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
This fall I've had two serious accidents/falls which have required a lot of rehab time. Now that I can ride, I don't feel like it. Back in April my mare and I could jump a small course of jumps, but now I can barely do a cross rail. I had signed up to do an eventing clinic in February, and it will be our first time cross country, but I obviously didn't plan on having this many set backs this fall. Can you please give me a kick in the pants to get my butt back in the saddle? Thanks (Sarah)
Hi Sarah!
I am so sorry to hear that you have had some setbacks! That can certainly make it hard to find the motivation to ride, especially at this time of the year when it is so cold and getting dark so early. What has helped me in the past to come back from falls and injuries is to really figure out what exactly caused the fall, so that I could be sure that I could have some control over if it would happen again. So do you know exactly what happened, and why you fell off? If you give me more details, or if you have the accident on video, I can help you develop a plan to make sure that whatever happened won't happen again. And you can do this privately with me if you would like - it doesn't have to be published on the site.
Here are some ideas on how to find motivation to ride when it is just easier not to: (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
He naturally picks up the right lead, both under tack, on the lunge, and loose in the pasture. Last night I decided to try all of the 'tricks" I know - walk to canter, shoulder in to canter, counter bend to canter, trot towards the wall and sudden turn into canter - nothing really produced consistent results. He was in a really good state of mind - not getting worked up at all - so I felt ok to keep trying. He got the left lead a total of 3 times, and then I decided to quit for the night. Usually I don't drill him, and let him just pick it up once and then quit. But tonight he was calm and I wanted to figure out if a different 'trick' would work. I'm a little stumped, and I really don't think my position was causing it tonight because I'm aware of how I'm sitting when I ask for canter. (sitting up, facing the left side, weight on the outside leg/seatbone) Do you have any ideas about this, or maybe tell me what I am doing wrong? (Leah)
Hi Leah!
That can be a frustrating problem! Difficulties with a canter lead are usually caused by one (or more) of these issues: (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
I don't know her history but think she may have been a cart horse. She is 12 years old and 14.2h. She has a naturally high headset and is always very above the bit, and quick through her shoulders. For the last year, I've worked on suppleness, straightness, and tempo. She finally seems to have a more consistently slower tempo but is still quick to get tense, unbalanced, and erratic. She has learned to move off the leg laterally, which I use to try balancing her on circles and keep her straighter on lines. But most of the time she bulges through half the circle, then leans the other half. She is crooked on straight lines and raises her head very high above the bit anytime we change direction or do a transition. I agree with your comments that draw reins are not a good solution, but I am starting to despair of making progress for her as long as she is so above the bit. I am considering using them if just to build her muscle memory and way of going in a less inverted frame. I don't believe she is relaxed enough to learn with her head high and back tense.
I've changed her bit to a happy mouth double joint. I've had the dentist out 3 times in the last year. She is on 24/7 turnout now, on light feed, Quiessence and Moody Mare supplements. And we lunge often in stretching side reins which she now seems to reach into more. But even at the lunge she is terribly unbalanced and bulges/leans each half of the circle, jumps into upward transitions and pulls through her shoulder into downward ones. Please let me know if you have any experience with this sort of problem and if there are exercises you recommend. Also, do you recommend carrying hands low and quiet or follow the horses head with a higher hand when their head is high? I mostly keep my hands low and quiet, but I don't think it is working. (Lisa)
Hi Lisa!
Wow, she sounds like quite a project! And it sounds like you have really tried to cover all of your bases. Is she excessively flighty on the ground as well? Has a vet given her a clean bill of health and soundness? What about saddle fit? If you are sure that she is sound and pain free, and that her saddle fits her, I would honestly say that you may just have to be prepared to give her lots of time.
It sounds like you are on the right path with the lunging in side reins, but you will need to address the bulging and leaning issues before she will be able to find her balance and rhythm. When I have a horse that is erratic on the lunge....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
The term "in front of the leg" means that the horse is thinking forward, and is ready to respond, instantly and enthusiastically, to the lightest of leg aids from the rider at any given moment. A horse can be more in front of the leg while trotting slowly (because he wants to go), than another horse who is passing him by at the gallop (with the rider working hard to keep the horse going). But to answer your question....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Question # 43: I am looking for exercises on and off horse to do over the winter to try to build strength and stamina. (Vita) Hi Vita!
This means that the distance between the rider's rear-end and the saddle changes a great deal as the horse moves. But I've had instructors tell me that my rear should not move relative to the saddle. That the "air space" between me and the saddle should stay the same. Can you clarify? (Briana)
Hi Briana!
In the gallop the rider should be balanced independently of the horse......poised and still with a stable center of gravity. This allows the horse to move freely in balance underneath them. What allows the rider to be poised and still on a 1200 pound galloping horse is.....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read the full answer)
Question # 41: It's easy to tell when Henry is round and balanced at the dressage canter. How do I learn to tell when he's balanced and forward at the gallop however? It's hard to know if he's just "going faster" than I'm used to, or is flat and "running"I've had two suggestions for this - one is having someone watch and tell me when it's right or wrong, but that means I can't practice on my own. The other is that "if the jump felt good" he was balanced and if he wasn't the jump will be awkward. But, I'd like to practice without jumping all the time too. If he's adjustable (coming back and going forward again), does that mean he's balanced by definition, or can a horse speed up and slow down responsively, but still not be "balanced" at the gallop? (Briana)
Hi Briana!
Both of the ideas that you mention are good, but I see your point in not wanting to jump him all of the time. Remember that the way you learn how to "feel" the quality of any movement is to guess at what you think you feel, and have educated eyes on the ground (or via video critique) tell you whether you are right or not. So if you want to judge the quality of your gallop without being in a lesson, you can always get someone to video you and send it to me.
The purpose of the figure eight noseband is to help to prevent the horse from evading the bit's action by excessively opening the mouth. It can be a useful piece of equipment when riding a horse that gets strong and/or fights the bit when jumping. And it is not necessary or particularly useful if the horse does not tend to pull or fight the bit.
Well he coliced middle of June and lost a ton of weight. So I haven't been riding him, but think that he has enough weight on him to start again probably beginning of September. So how do you recommend restarting him? Like a month of just walking/hacking undersaddle? Then back to some basic walk and trot dressage work? (Sarah)
Hi Sarah!
What a great thing you are doing so carefully bringing back a rescue horse! How slow you bring him back depends on a few things....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
I recently read somewhere that it is incorrect to ride this as two straight lines, that the correct way to ride it is as a shallow serpentine with changes of bend on the quarter line. Can you offer any guidance on this? (Briana)
Hi Briana,
Good for you for doing some dressage shows this summer! I think that is a great way for you to practice working on your "show nerves". The answer to your question is...(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
if we are making a 20 meter circle to the left, he will pop his right shoulder out and his body is still moving to the right. When he starts to really ignore the fact that I want to turn, I do have a tendency of using my inside rein more and my outside leg. I know I should use my outside reinalso, to keep his neck from overbending and his shoulder popping out. But I think I could be doing something wrong with my seat & legs also. Maybe I am leaning too much to the inside or my outside leg isn't back, I haven't quite found out yet. What else can I do to get through this? Are there any specific exercises or something I should try to do with my position? (Karrie)
Hi Karrie!
Falling through the outside shoulder is a common problem. The key to fixing it is to change the way you think about turning your horse. Riders tend to attempt to turn their horse the way they turn a bicycle. When turning a bicycle you turn the handle bars, and your outside hand goes forward as the handle bars turn. But your horse is not bolted together like your bicycle is, so you need a different approach to make turns successful. (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
My solution to that more than 6 months ago was to show frequently, just "get used to it!" What happened is that Henry figured out the system (he totally knows the difference between warm up and the competition ring now) and I'm still nervous. Though, I remember you told me about a horse of yours that you thought had "figured out the system" and it turned out to be your issue at crossing the line at A into the dressage ring. I know that I'm a large part of the problem, we went to a schooling show a few weeks ago that had NO consequences! No one knew we were there. We were the only ones in our divisions! I actually focused and rode! And Henry was brilliant, we earned a 32 and a 33 in the level above our current level and 2! levels above what we've been showing (a 32 is a GOOD score for us at the lower levels, never mind 2 levels above - we got our first "10" Ever!) So...I know it's all my issue. What do I do? I can't seem to fool myself into not caring. If it matters (i.e. a recognized competition or god-forbid, AECs in Sept) I get tense and make our lives hard regardless of the speeches I give myself in my head about this is all just for fun, it doesn't matter, ect. If I care, I get tense. Any suggestions??? (Briana)
Hi Briana!
First of all, congratulations on your great scores!! A "10", wow! That's great! Managing show nerves is a big problem for many people. You may never eliminate the problem completely, but there are certainly some things you can do that will help. (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Do you apply a half-halt on the outside rein with the use of the inside rein when the inside leg is forward (at the trot)? What do you do at the canter? (Karrie)
Hi Karrie!
A half halt can be performed at nearly any time in the trot, as one hind leg is always coming up underneath the horse. It's in the canter that the timing is crucial. The only time you can positively influence the canter in the horse is....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
My trainers have explained to me that there are times you put more weight on the inside seatbone or step down a little more on the inside heel (along with outside & staying in the middle). (Karrie)
Hi Karrie!
This is a great question, and I think a concept that many riders are confused about. Classically we are told to keep the inside seat bone weighted during all movements. But over many years of teaching I have found that the majority of riders will tend to sit crooked when trying to weight a seat bone. So now when teaching, I usually tell riders instead to...(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
While I know the horse has to have forward energy/movement, I can't seem to get past this mental confusion and it makes it harder for me to collect him. Can you help? (Karrie)
Hi Karrie!
Your leg aid means different things to your horse depending on what the rest of your body is doing. So if you simply close your legs, you are asking your horse to go faster. And if you want your horse to instead engage his hind legs and bring his hind legs more underneath his body, you need to....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
I have given him a year off, and was going to do the month of ulcer guard, then start him back. do you think a horse like that should just not be doing eventing if it is so stressful to him? (Shawn)
Hi Shawn!
Many OTTBs have anxiety issues, but most get better with age and experience. How old is your horse? Is he anxious on the ground, under saddle, or both? What does he do when he gets anxious?
As far as the ulcers are concerned I recommend...(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Building strength is definitely much harder without hills, but it can certainly be done! First of all, sometimes you can find a single slope to negotiate somewhere, even on otherwise flat property. Like the side of a driveway or a culvert. So be on the lookout for a small hill that you may not have even noticed. If you can find one, I recommend that riders do "hill repeats", walking up and down for a set number of reps twice a week. The actual number of reps depends on the size and slope of the hill, and the current strength level of the horse. If you find one, feel free to describe it or send a picture, and I can give you a more precise answer on that.
If you can't find any hills to work on at all, cavaletti and judicious flatwork will certainly be able to build up the strength in your horse's back and hindquarters. They are just not as foolproof as hills for that purpose.
It is prob too short, and he does have a long neck, but I HATE it. I just did a couple x's, and it felt like I couldn't get his head up after, and he couldn't put it up. Sunday I'm going to a practice xc event in MD, and I think I'll just skip it altogether. You've seen him...no high head problems. What do you think? (Andi)
That is a always challenge for us instructors, isn't it? I think the answer lies in continuing education. Clinics, books, videos, magazines, and online sources. And this site should be a great help for instructors! Every time you log in you might get another new idea to use on your students. And if there is a specific problem that you would like new exercises for, you just have to ask!
Here are a few of my favorite jumping exercises: (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
(just stuff cotton in there? does it stay?) When would you put studs on all four feet? Is it ok to only drill the back shoes? (to reduce cost). Thanks! (Briana)
Hi Briana!
Your farrier should know where to put the stud holes. He will either use a machine, or will have to drill and tap them by hand. They are usually an inch or so from the heels of the shoe like this:
Here is a very important tip! (Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Ahh, an adrenaline junkie! I know the type very well. I could probably help you a whole lot more if you send me a video so I can see how you are handling the situation when he gets strong. Can you do that?
I'm getting self conscious that I should be farther along. Always been under the belief that until a horse or rider is bored at a level, don't move up. (Kimberly)
Hi Kimberly!
My opinion is that horse and rider don't necessarily need to be bored at their current level to move up, but.....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)Question #15: At what level do I need to start using studs? (Andi)
This is a great question Andi! And you will find a lot of different opinions on this subject. There are some who feel that the horse shouldn't need them at lower levels, because they are not going that fast. And they want their horses to figure out how to manage slippery situations when they are young.
These two issues are usually related, as what allows a rider to have nice quiet hands is a solid and correct seat. I'm going to give you an exercise to try that will show you how to be more consistent with your upper body and hand position...(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Question # 13: I need help with my stadium rounds. My horse gets revved up at shows and as our stadium course goes on it gets worse and worse. He is fighting me the whole way and not really in control. We meet a lot of jumps awkwardly, and we usually have lots of rails down. I use a regular full cheek snaffle and a running martingale. I haven't gone to a stronger bit, since he actually has a nice mouth the rest of the time. We do fine on cross country, it's only like this in the stadium jumping. Can you help us?? (Anonymous)
I could certainly answer you much more specifically if I could see a video of what is happening. Can you submit a video?
Generally a good, smooth, clean stadium round happens when you have the right quality of canter, and your horse is adjustable. Because it sounds like your horse is lacking in adjustability, the quality of your canter is diminishing as your round goes on, and you then are unable to fix it.
What do I mean by the right quality of the canter? The right canter to jump out of is balanced, rhythmic, straight, and in self carriage. With the appropriate amount of impulsion for the jump in front of you.
It takes adjustability to be able to maintain that canter throughout a course. Your horse may approach the first jump with the right canter, and land from the first jump running, flat, and out of balance. If your horse is adjustable, you can easily put him right back in the same quality canter you had before the jump. If you do not have adjustability, your rounds will get worse and worse like you describe.
My main focus is dressage and I have been riding almost daily for about two years but I am itching to try cross country. OK maybe not the big jumps and ditches. It's dead winter and I'm planning my spring and summer. Any suggestions on how I can get started in a small way and any advice to preparing my body. (Cheryl)
Hi Cheryl!
Yes, you should definitely give it a try! There is nothing like it. Nothing creates a stronger bond between horse and rider. That's when it's going well, of course!
I know I have to take it easy 'til he's 5, but how much can I do and what new exercises can I introduce to keep him from getting bored...? Thanks! (Jenny)
I've never found any documented information on how cold is really too cold for the horse's lungs. But my cut off point has always been 15 degrees. Of course now that I live in the south, and have offically turned into a cold weather wimp, I rarely want to ride when it's below freezing! :)
My number one consideration when deciding if horses should be worked when it gets really cold is the footing. When the ground or arena footing is frozen I either don't ride or I mostly work in walk. The concussive forces on the horses' feet and legs are just too great when the ground is that hard. Now if you have some nice soft snow to ride in that changes things! Spray the bottoms of their feet with some cooking spray and have fun! Although that unfortunately doesn't work in all situations. I find in the south, whenever we do get snow, it's wet and icy. And the cooking spray does not seem to work to prevent the snoballs in their feet.
We are only doing flat work and light hacking at the moment, mostly getting the basics back, but I would really like to go to some competitions this year. Any suggestions on how to set goals for myself and my new horse? She has competed in a few unrecognized novice events, but it has been a couple of years and she was competed by a professional. (Cheryl)
Hi Cheryl!
Congratulations on your new horse!! I'm looking forward to watching you two become a team! Since she is new to you, and you both have been out of competition for a while, I would recommend that you really take the time to bond and get to know each other before you start competing. And it might be wise to ease into competition gradually by starting off with a dressage show or a schooling jumper show, instead of an event. That way you can see exactly what your new horse will be like away from home, and how she reacts to any show ring nerves that you may have. So pick one or two schooling type shows for late spring or early summer that may be a posibility. If you find that you don't feel ready as the dates get closer, that's no problem. Just skip those and look for something late summer or early fall. But I think that it really helps a rider to motivate themselves and ride with more focus, when they have some goals in the immediate future to strive for.
Here is a sample work week for the typical novice level horse: (Click on Question title above (in blue) to read full answer)
I think what started it was my giving him carrots while I saddled him so he wouldn't be so irritable about it. The first time he broke his halter he raised his head looking for a carrot. When he felt the pressure on his poll, he just kept pulling until he was free. I have stopped giving him carrots but today he did it again when I was brushing his ears-he raised his head and just kept going - as if once he started the process, he remembered the past episodes and got afraid and wanted to escape. I'd like to fix this quick! I know the Wrights only used break away halters on him and warned me about leaving him tied to the trailer when I took him to Lighten Up but he's never acted like this before. (Lisa)
Hi Lisa!
This problem stems from the fact that horses instinctively lean into pressure, and that they are naturally a bit claustrophobic. Not all horses can be completely cured of the "pulling back" problem, but many can be helped. So start by teaching him to "give" to pressure. (Click on the Question title above (in blue) to read the full answer)
I see there are "unrecognized trials" in MD, and I suppose that is the kind one starts at (also schooling days at some xc farms)! For instance, I've seen that certain things are required, helmet, vest, but what is a medical armband, and where does one get this?? I am going to join the USEA Area II, or do I join USEA? I am not interested in accruing points at this time. I just want access to information so I can get more knowledge and experience. (Andi)
Thank you for asking this question Andi, as I'm sure there are many others in the same boat as you are! It's hard to learn what you need to know, without already knowing what you need to learn about, isn't it?? The good news is that eventers as a rule are a very friendly and helpful, so don't hesitate to ask questions or ask for help while at your events. You will make lots of great friends in the process as well!
That said, you will feel most confident going into your first event if you are truly prepared for it, so here are some tips: (Click on Question title above (in blue) to read full answer)
Question #4: My name is Cheryl and I just bought a 7 yr old chestnut Irish Sport Horse Mare. Her name is Winnie and we've had probably 6 rides all together. The first 3 were absolutely wonderful and the last 2, not so much! During my last 2 rides she was much "higher" than my other rides (weather very chilly and windy) and we were hacking at a nice trot where she was exceedingly "speedier" seemingly with each step and before I knew it, she let out a big buck! It seemed like it came out of nowhere! She stopped after just one, and I stayed on, but my ride today was similar except that I couldn't even trot without feeling like she wanted to go faster and faster and got tight under the saddle. I could feel a buck just waiting to happen, so we went back to the basics, just walking calmly in the arena. Of course since I just spent a small fortune on her, I am a bit concerned and hope that I am not creating this problem by the way I ride? Any suggestions? Thank you Lesley and I look forward to hearing from you soon!!
Hi Cheryl!
Has anything changed in her routine? Now that you own her, is she still getting the same kind of food and the same amount that she was before? What about turnout? You may just need to lunge her a bit first on the cold windy days, especially if she has limited turnout.
I really can't make any comments on whether or not her tension is due to something you are doing without seeing a video. Can you get someone to video you?
is to help to prevent the horse from evading the bit's action by excessively opening the mouth. It can be a useful piece of equipment when riding a horse that gets strong and/or fights the bit when jumping. And it is not necessary or particularly useful if the horse does not tend to pull or fight the bit. 
works similarly to the figure eight. The difference between the action of the two nosebands is....(Click on Question Title above (in blue) to read full answer)
